Friday, June 29, 2012

Fitting the dark brown stays + updates

My friend came over yesterday and she helped me to take better photos of my earlier 1780's stays. Check them out here! I've now sewn the pieces of the new stays together and I got to try them on a couple of days ago. This was the result:


I had made the the front too small and there wasn't enough space for bust. The figure was all too flat when the stays were laced completely. So, I opened the lacing leaving a gap at the upper edge of the center front, as seen in the picture, to achieve the right shape. I was considering for a while whether I would just always wear them like this or if I should make new front pieces. Also, I was getting a bit frustrated because of so much tweaking on stays and felt like I should just go with the earlier pair of 1780's stays and give up with the new ones. But, in the end, realizing that the eyelets weren't positioned right either - the front pieces wouldn't meet evenly - I pulled myself together and decided to sew new front pieces. The pattern needed a little reconsidering. In the picture below, you can see a sketch of the original shape of the centre front piece. There were two options how I could give more space to the bust: you could curve out the line at the side or at the front. I chose the option I because I had lacing at the front and it could cause some problems if the centre front wasn't straight. I also needed a little more space at the armpit so the option I also allowed me to add space there at the same time.


So, I took the old front pieces away, sewed up the new front pieces and I got to try the stays on again yesterday. This time, it was a success.


I had made the tabs a little longer than in my earlier stays. It turned out to be a good idea, accompanied the curvy lines of the pattern, the tabs flare out very beautifully! Also, I gave the tabs more tooth-like shape like in many of the 1780's stays so I suppose they'll be also easier to bind.


Now the shape is finally what I was going for. The top edge curves up radically and supports the bust area from the sides and holds it in place preventing the breasts from flattening and sliding towards the sides.


I'm really fond of the back side. The boning structure emphasizes the waist and the conical shape of the stays. You can also see the effect of the curvy seams of the back side panels: the stays follow the lines of the back very nicely.


I'm happy I had the patience to go on with these stays and not to give up with them. I've learned a lot during the process of fitting and pattern making of these stays and I really hope this post helps others who are pondering the same things I did. :) Hopefully next time as I'm posting I'll be able to show you pictures of the finished stays. We'll see about it later on!

13 comments:

  1. These are really beautiful and the workmanship so amazing.Your patience and determination to sort out a problem and get that problem resolved is an example to someone like me who makes mistakes with far easier garments and then just gives up out of frustration! Beautiful stays!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! :) It's so nice to hear supportive comments. It makes it easier to have the patience with my sewing projects because I often feel like giving up, too!

      Delete
  2. Those look great! I love the plow shape at the front. So 1780's! And cheers to you going back and making adjustments. I get so impatient sometimes that I don't go back and fix fitting issues, and then I end up with something that doesn't work and I never wear it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm so glad to hear you think the shape looks proper for the 1780's! I'm also often very impatient with my sewing projects but I've been trying to learn more patience lately. Usually I've ended being dissatisfied with everything I didn't do carefully so I try to think about it every time I feel like things aren't progressing as quickly as I wish...

      Delete
  3. *bursts into tears* So beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  4. They look great! Lovely fit!

    As an aside I can tell you that I have used the third option and that has always worked very well for me. I usually make mine both front and backlaced and have never had any problems with a front that isn't completely straight. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh, that's good to hear. What did you use for the boning of the front then? Cable ties? I used metal bones so I thought the straight metal bones wouldn't work with the curvy boning tunnels.

      Delete
  5. What a smashing job you did! You look marvelous too!
    http://anhistoricallady.blogspot.com

    ReplyDelete