tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74302503839478445372024-03-19T00:28:30.829+02:00Rococo AtelierFashion follies from the pastSanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-31201781072557849122021-03-18T16:51:00.046+02:002021-04-01T13:07:58.996+03:00Making 18th century stays for a curvy plus size woman*: Green linen 1780s stays, drafted according to Patterns of Fashion volume 5<div style="text-align: justify;">My friend Pia (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/stepsbackintothepast/" target="_blank">@stepsbackintothepast</a> on Instagram) was in need of a well fitting pair of 18th century stays so I started making her one in the summer of 2019. The new <a href="https://shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/product/patterns-of-fashion-5-the-content-cut-construction-and-context-of-bodies-stays-hoops-and-rumps-c-1595-1795/" target="_blank">Patterns of Fashion book (volume 5)</a> had just come out earlier in the year so I was eager to try out the drafting method introduced in the book to see if it would yield better results than my own. And I was not disappointed! There's one thing I'd like to mention though. The instructions are easy to use for someone with a lot of experience in drafting patterns but I think beginners might find them lacking, as there are gaps that you should be able to fill in. I mention this because I don't want anyone to excitedly get the book and be sorely disappointed that they aren't able to understand the method and get the results they were hoping for because the instructions are very vague. Other than this, I think the book is extremely interesting and provides a lot of useful information that you can apply into making a pair of 18th century stays, whether you are a beginner or a more experienced historical costume-maker. Sadly, I didn't take many in progress photos of the stays in the making as I was trying to get them ready for wearing as quickly as possible. The first photo shows the finished stays (more of those can be found below the construction photos) so you can already see how they turned out.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Disclaimer: This is going to be a long post. :)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1viHwWyWL6lT-OqJ6wijUXV6qDC8nxBblPc5miUNYZ_u32PjixyJSmGQBQfaEXHM_22R147lguCSX_ei_d2pmN4pd4mNrIuwioirXqt61BtxIXawPmp8waxhh8VRwKlrxEJaXbKhDaYU/s2048/IMG_20210102_192158-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1viHwWyWL6lT-OqJ6wijUXV6qDC8nxBblPc5miUNYZ_u32PjixyJSmGQBQfaEXHM_22R147lguCSX_ei_d2pmN4pd4mNrIuwioirXqt61BtxIXawPmp8waxhh8VRwKlrxEJaXbKhDaYU/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_192158-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The idea was to make the stays as comfortable as possible, so we decided that we should use linen that we had already had available in the stash, too. The three linen layers are; a sturdy linen canvas for the middle layer, natural linen for the innermost layer and plain green linen for the outside. Here are the panels after cutting. The construction photos were quickly snapped on my not-so-new phone so the quality isn't ideal but I hope they're good enough.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC353FbSF97yUuTiM6Ky3E2TpZc_5p8d5LWE8_63MBk09v1zVoeWsSXG34F4jQ503dnqfX1B5I6BxnNO6F9nh7IWe7PuBnJqkFkAncmAtOdimjwIGMbftsDn8DOckzwAaZ3KGxaPEgqig/s2048/DSC_8903+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC353FbSF97yUuTiM6Ky3E2TpZc_5p8d5LWE8_63MBk09v1zVoeWsSXG34F4jQ503dnqfX1B5I6BxnNO6F9nh7IWe7PuBnJqkFkAncmAtOdimjwIGMbftsDn8DOckzwAaZ3KGxaPEgqig/w426-h640/DSC_8903+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The next two photos show basting around the panels in progress. Later on I realized it would have been smart to baste the middle sections with large basting stitches as well because linen has a tendency to move around when you're stitching the channels but it wasn't a huge problem. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQ1rCc3MkIF5zG6g50O0YrZfqQFECuXd63q3F1IugwN43NcLI_gOZhbdsSmZkPZ_6zul0VrplMK4MllUvM1SDkQBk4wuwphqcef4kMZBBShRvnMn_3H7yWalu9G2gUj-mhhjL118DmUU/s2048/DSC_8904+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQ1rCc3MkIF5zG6g50O0YrZfqQFECuXd63q3F1IugwN43NcLI_gOZhbdsSmZkPZ_6zul0VrplMK4MllUvM1SDkQBk4wuwphqcef4kMZBBShRvnMn_3H7yWalu9G2gUj-mhhjL118DmUU/w426-h640/DSC_8904+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxju87NNa1p_SMlubH6cqzoXSTUvtxVXtNHoquJNlEW2gxw7ziH1Tn42BVjj0DaXG-H_9BJI43K9wUvwMu4Aw4hCdVFRm2uClKYgjkXReqUBF9CTWGFBIZSBHnKpDl93cZtqj_zb76OM/s2048/DSC_8905+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxju87NNa1p_SMlubH6cqzoXSTUvtxVXtNHoquJNlEW2gxw7ziH1Tn42BVjj0DaXG-H_9BJI43K9wUvwMu4Aw4hCdVFRm2uClKYgjkXReqUBF9CTWGFBIZSBHnKpDl93cZtqj_zb76OM/w426-h640/DSC_8905+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">By this time I had learned that by using a thicker thread than your regular sewing thread, the stitching looks more like that seen on originals and it also creates sturdier boning channels so I wanted to experiment with that for fun, regardless of that the stays weren't even supposed to be constructed in a period manner.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64iA53IrDijgb5U7yg0hatkqHzkwxwePUYRrbcoTDSDu0lXjoyJHzmpMahbvE2RMijpCGmRLJN6jVrtO-tkBfMehM6_MSO5EWg90i9yRi9G1p_d4gY3LsNYaYUNcpx13aFIErXJS7g7M/s2048/DSC_8909+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg64iA53IrDijgb5U7yg0hatkqHzkwxwePUYRrbcoTDSDu0lXjoyJHzmpMahbvE2RMijpCGmRLJN6jVrtO-tkBfMehM6_MSO5EWg90i9yRi9G1p_d4gY3LsNYaYUNcpx13aFIErXJS7g7M/w426-h640/DSC_8909+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">This is how the panels looked after stitching most of the channels by machine. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpBtOKsagBkRVRqbnUrIe75n_ODxtFtP3JtbYFsVqe_8sthzPnf-6LZLLqtYkQehQAOCYXx_phfy5k3HqWYRYb_VhTm9U39cQ9zmhm-aKCjV6h9gZKch2HokLeljtd-2yxmdlSebni9Y/s2048/DSC_8927+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpBtOKsagBkRVRqbnUrIe75n_ODxtFtP3JtbYFsVqe_8sthzPnf-6LZLLqtYkQehQAOCYXx_phfy5k3HqWYRYb_VhTm9U39cQ9zmhm-aKCjV6h9gZKch2HokLeljtd-2yxmdlSebni9Y/w426-h640/DSC_8927+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">After adding the lacing grommets <span style="font-size: x-small;">(this is custom work done as quickly as possible so handstitched eyelets weren't an option)</span>, assembling the stays and inserting the uncut zip ties into the boning channels it was time for the first fitting! I didn't bother to do a mockup because I was feeling pretty confident about the pattern and wanted to save time so I wasn't going to be as perfectionistic as I normally have a tendency to be. The main goal, afterall, was to make a pair of stays that create the correct shape/silhouette for the era under a gown - nitpicking about every little minor detail was absolutely unnecessary. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">As can be seen from the photos, the front panels were too large at the bust as I had overestimated how much room for the bust was going to be needed. Sorry about the mess in the background and the low quality of these photos. The lighting was less than ideal. The pin at the side marks the place above which the front panels had to mostly be taken in at the side, though the side seams was altered even below that point so that the seam line would be smooth and correspond with 1780s stay front panel shapes as closely as possible. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5urbmmUmuxdmbUfyrC0IgBNOUIkxn8k7dOm78uk2VWyORrCcTqOCY_Inu0ydGY49uhtjhii8UE1c0ODxnoB-Vqz1e0-HjPxorqr_CPSKQyYhvuk2sjz7pJR0CEwfWycYUL3Lq_q8xD8/s2048/DSC_8932+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5urbmmUmuxdmbUfyrC0IgBNOUIkxn8k7dOm78uk2VWyORrCcTqOCY_Inu0ydGY49uhtjhii8UE1c0ODxnoB-Vqz1e0-HjPxorqr_CPSKQyYhvuk2sjz7pJR0CEwfWycYUL3Lq_q8xD8/w426-h640/DSC_8932+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">See how much extra space there was... </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtCkKg-I9wKztviQulGRpdExqHL2TWTAEuQdHa2zOQaim7kvyjXXem2CK_m6iM7vQIIbylbitIJrkr5oYh2lOFeKNRpxRAKChuKt-Bncs_BKYj3Z0XgkFElcVxFQGZegu3rA0SlsWPFs/s2048/DSC_8929+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtCkKg-I9wKztviQulGRpdExqHL2TWTAEuQdHa2zOQaim7kvyjXXem2CK_m6iM7vQIIbylbitIJrkr5oYh2lOFeKNRpxRAKChuKt-Bncs_BKYj3Z0XgkFElcVxFQGZegu3rA0SlsWPFs/w426-h640/DSC_8929+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigyboofLQyGIDsUsyPS7JQ4Dp6hh6uCg1KiMJccxzdxi24AbyuqmoPp833t9FCmkVVAAR7matneoyBFaN0AaMBtOW0x_VFxBpDTU1czD2b0ZXlxN5CqYwAKduRHxUZo2KEjQLkoY4-5ck/s2048/DSC_8933+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigyboofLQyGIDsUsyPS7JQ4Dp6hh6uCg1KiMJccxzdxi24AbyuqmoPp833t9FCmkVVAAR7matneoyBFaN0AaMBtOW0x_VFxBpDTU1czD2b0ZXlxN5CqYwAKduRHxUZo2KEjQLkoY4-5ck/w426-h640/DSC_8933+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Unfortunately I don't remember how much I ended up taking the sides of the front panels in but it was somewhere around 3 cm per side if I'm not entirely mistaken. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXIqosTu132UHPudl9bpWXtRL4hzQaTNYL36fgX9O-YpZO2pU9TEL9-L9xXiny7OCbnNuyp2xmTdIihgSd2FqVic7PJPKEBX99ZjrC3Xw_z44sQAylSHlN3ME0uzYgFk0k7KtWoHzZDA/s2048/DSC_8931+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXIqosTu132UHPudl9bpWXtRL4hzQaTNYL36fgX9O-YpZO2pU9TEL9-L9xXiny7OCbnNuyp2xmTdIihgSd2FqVic7PJPKEBX99ZjrC3Xw_z44sQAylSHlN3ME0uzYgFk0k7KtWoHzZDA/w426-h640/DSC_8931+%25283%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The back fitted like a glove though. As a side note, it still baffles me that I sometimes manage to lace stays incorrectly after more than a decade of making and wearing them... Anyway, it didn't really matter at this point. Also, notice that the stays were intentionally made to close entirely in the back, as per Patterns of Fashion 5. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0g-7jRy0pQlH1n9tdyTTLHOlGSpf9cbtcS3kh4uMg9TwyT1eF_tGBUL-Gd1SZV5IpVlZDRSeI0Un95utWqOZ6ltPRhQ6b6itqt96Fzu-bKsTDKjM8NRMDguWvja5CL7t9LoPRSaeyQlo/s2048/DSC_8930+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0g-7jRy0pQlH1n9tdyTTLHOlGSpf9cbtcS3kh4uMg9TwyT1eF_tGBUL-Gd1SZV5IpVlZDRSeI0Un95utWqOZ6ltPRhQ6b6itqt96Fzu-bKsTDKjM8NRMDguWvja5CL7t9LoPRSaeyQlo/w426-h640/DSC_8930+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The following photos are taken from the second fitting. Check out how much better the fit at the bust is! The stays merely hold and support the bust but they aren't supposed to compress nor to shovel the bust upwards too much. She does have a busty figure so it may appear like there's a lot of lift from the photos, also thanks to the angle and lighting.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">At the top edge of the front panel of the stays near the armpit you can see how the front panels do not compress - there's still a slight bit of extra there. This point would get correctly, gently pressed against the side of the bust once the shoulder straps would be added, as can be observed from later photos of the finished stays. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBa9CausYrJV8Jy8Nu4HZTpuD2Q0a0L_WD-P7p4JxT0F6ETjcPYUdw9puTMneZyO1GFopLsPO2dwE0hOII_TJu5YuzxaqiWPwPdnt1CEn8jsCKVP9phIyRpaHBgXQEtcTOJMOm18gblVs/s2048/DSC_9255+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBa9CausYrJV8Jy8Nu4HZTpuD2Q0a0L_WD-P7p4JxT0F6ETjcPYUdw9puTMneZyO1GFopLsPO2dwE0hOII_TJu5YuzxaqiWPwPdnt1CEn8jsCKVP9phIyRpaHBgXQEtcTOJMOm18gblVs/w426-h640/DSC_9255+%25283%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This time I remembered how to lace properly. 😅</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQVGNzFhaqZ_Wfb0bVy78NU0I-1fXxMzTYsdeQGDuaa2AGRZogK9ad5yL2EgBMJFJttpAZKfA7vEsO09VL3WxiWkovl3yXF2QovRCWZotldO4SpSAqZZq1bQHfzIX697dxPOo54lLtEeg/s2048/DSC_9256+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQVGNzFhaqZ_Wfb0bVy78NU0I-1fXxMzTYsdeQGDuaa2AGRZogK9ad5yL2EgBMJFJttpAZKfA7vEsO09VL3WxiWkovl3yXF2QovRCWZotldO4SpSAqZZq1bQHfzIX697dxPOo54lLtEeg/w426-h640/DSC_9256+%25283%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">At the back we can also observe how the stays merely hold and support the back without compression. There is no "muffin top spillage" of flesh that would be a result of a too tight fit around the bust/back - which can happen to a woman of any size - just to point out that I'm not only taking about plus sizes here. Most of us (unless you're very lean) have more or less flesh that can be moved around and I, too, have certainly experienced spillage after gaining weight, resulting in my old stays becoming too small. It's normal if your weight and/or bust size tends to fluctuate, however, it should be avoided when you're fitting a brand new pair of stays.</div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQC2XKZHhjHs9_RHMpuzbx8z2xHjV6RkiGE44sPOd8F0w8MD633frXZs7TTLlvkj5hthe9GYeSEZVnj7h13tlTquqmIKZaE5AT8TyhQXuAUNqZo7QMHKEVlcjJz8yNmKoJLRL9Zy0jZA4/s2048/DSC_9258+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQC2XKZHhjHs9_RHMpuzbx8z2xHjV6RkiGE44sPOd8F0w8MD633frXZs7TTLlvkj5hthe9GYeSEZVnj7h13tlTquqmIKZaE5AT8TyhQXuAUNqZo7QMHKEVlcjJz8yNmKoJLRL9Zy0jZA4/w426-h640/DSC_9258+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp1GN-c1I_sVZTm4uVzYaQYwAQUNc6Nt-f-s-FcuOpjC31z9_IN46xz43uedhh59J6F_XzgquTrSte2vrfXd5zd6eh-ZZshnOYmKbVrkXuNt8vFcEi9sWEDQ7jML6Nz-ewjv_6ec8lmmQ/s2048/DSC_9260+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp1GN-c1I_sVZTm4uVzYaQYwAQUNc6Nt-f-s-FcuOpjC31z9_IN46xz43uedhh59J6F_XzgquTrSte2vrfXd5zd6eh-ZZshnOYmKbVrkXuNt8vFcEi9sWEDQ7jML6Nz-ewjv_6ec8lmmQ/w426-h640/DSC_9260+%25283%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">After the fitting I closed the ends of the boning channels and zig-zagged around the edges of the stays to imitate the whipped edges of the originals and to prevent the layers of linen from fraying. After this the stays were wearable so they had to be put aside to wait for a better time for me to finish them. It took until summer 2020 for that time to arrive, which is when I bound the edges of the stays with tape, and finally right after Christmas I added the straps and hooks that the straps attach to. </div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPdDEwbcXzwXpg2SA4fIr41bXsN0UMNW1gxrkU4kE_soXbtcekeXd6fKgWgaIg5EZ8gxwA9-Zg9NWHCazHLKSBGtZXwJx_Vhau8pjyuyBfIZESQ1Mp3Zaw6wTOt33TXvc_p4gkizFS-8/s2048/IMG_20210102_193428-3+%25284%2529-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGPdDEwbcXzwXpg2SA4fIr41bXsN0UMNW1gxrkU4kE_soXbtcekeXd6fKgWgaIg5EZ8gxwA9-Zg9NWHCazHLKSBGtZXwJx_Vhau8pjyuyBfIZESQ1Mp3Zaw6wTOt33TXvc_p4gkizFS-8/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_193428-3+%25284%2529-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The stays are mainly boned with 7 mm wide zip ties for more support than the thinner (4,7 mm) ones. We were planning on putting metal bones in the channels next to the center front and center back but it didn't happen. We'll see if we find them necessary to add in the long run as the stays will be worn more regularly and for longer periods of time. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Let's address the shape of the stays. Even though I was basing the stays off of 1780s stays we wanted them to work for a slightly longer stretch of time, at least as far back as the 1770s. Hence the top edge of the stays doesn't scoop down as much in the front as it might, nor is there as much shaping in the front overall. The front curve seen from the side isn't as radical as in some 1780s stays but there is still a little bit of that "pigeon breast/prow front" (or whatever you prefer to call it) look but it's not dramatic. If more curvature for the bust is desired for a more distinct 1780s look, the lacing can be left more open at the front. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEionFA4I-5Pj_sHhrJbXzGdqB5vsIj4vyD8qEBK5oSmq_Lbb_gHv_UjUnfSLBcV2sXgxvAeS7WIDUMTboVAdxsuvDmQ1d8qrNymLU85H1W_RpSOSI7KALoGnrROaCsWRv_GXaeim0WiRfY/s2048/IMG_20210102_195915-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEionFA4I-5Pj_sHhrJbXzGdqB5vsIj4vyD8qEBK5oSmq_Lbb_gHv_UjUnfSLBcV2sXgxvAeS7WIDUMTboVAdxsuvDmQ1d8qrNymLU85H1W_RpSOSI7KALoGnrROaCsWRv_GXaeim0WiRfY/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_195915-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">The stays below were one of the examples of stays that I looked at as a reference, although I wasn't going to copy them or any other specific pair of extant stays exactly, instead Pia's stays are a mixture of typical stays from the decade. </span><span style="text-align: justify;">Just look how much lower the top front edge of these c. 1785-1790 stays scoops down. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBmholuRJRzZFYXiI4LXrQ0rk9N-LwuaG-YzYWaQkQK0lpybsgZ1LIdBBgMLXhlSeMnev-5Iy1B-UfYXKUxrG7u67shuDQL7bhND8rxnuEcwyMrQLQb_DTwuavNDIfZr9igs73rIAeBkM/s768/M969X.26-P5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="579" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBmholuRJRzZFYXiI4LXrQ0rk9N-LwuaG-YzYWaQkQK0lpybsgZ1LIdBBgMLXhlSeMnev-5Iy1B-UfYXKUxrG7u67shuDQL7bhND8rxnuEcwyMrQLQb_DTwuavNDIfZr9igs73rIAeBkM/w483-h640/M969X.26-P5.jpg" width="483" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M969X.26" target="_blank">Stays, 1785-1790 © McCord Museum</a> (Photo shared under the </span><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.5/ca/" target="_blank">CC BY-NC-ND 2.5 CA licence</a></span></span><span style="font-size: small;">)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Pia's measurements* with the stays are 107 cm (42 in) bust and 83,50 cm (33 in) waist, while her natural measurements are 108 cm (42 1/2 in) bust and 92 cm (36 in) waist, meaning the waist reduction is 8,5 cm (3 inches). The bust isn't meant to be reduced in stays so it's pretty much the same. The pattern itself measures 77 cm (30 1/2 in) at the waist and 104 cm (41 in) at the bust. This is something I've learned along the way; if you draft your pattern to match your desired measurements exactly, your stays will most likely end up being too big, especially if they are made fully in linen, as linen tends to stretch. But I've made stays from all sorts of materials and I've always had to make the measurements of the pattern smaller than your desired measurements. I'd love to provide you with some exact numbers of how much smaller your pattern should be, but that varies depending on the body of the person the stays are being made for as well as the fabrics you're working with and the amount stiffening you're going to put into the stays. But I thought I'd mention this, as a lot of people make the first mock-up of their first stays way too big (including myself) because of underestimating how much smaller the pattern should be in relation to your measurements. After all, that's what mock-ups are for... Anyhow, I hope this helps you to achieve a better first mock-up. Don't be afraid to make the pattern a bit smaller than you think! It rarely is the case that the first one turns out too small. :)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(Inches are rounded up or down to the nearest half an inch.)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">*Please note that these measurement may or may not be labeled as plus size depending on country, clothing brand or other factors. However, we decided to use the term "curvy plus size" in the title and text because Pia herself thought it would describe her body the best due to her proportions, as she is short and busty. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span>I</span><span> also made this collage to show the difference that wearing a pair of stays makes. Notice her blouse is somewhat loose at the waist so the photos don't give an entirely realistic image of her body but you should be able to get an idea anyhow. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZcVBFb-EwG1aS0ixBXBxxfW32bMDpu5l-NnXIUISC8dihG-pgx2Pl9XyfBqEP7wPNrcO9leFsFmczRDAU8NJwI7LitqDiwVFIJRZ91X7OVRWAuosWdGoC_-aNSLRJhjCzNhNUr58bpQ/s2048/kollaasihori4+%25282%2529-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2038" data-original-width="2048" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnZcVBFb-EwG1aS0ixBXBxxfW32bMDpu5l-NnXIUISC8dihG-pgx2Pl9XyfBqEP7wPNrcO9leFsFmczRDAU8NJwI7LitqDiwVFIJRZ91X7OVRWAuosWdGoC_-aNSLRJhjCzNhNUr58bpQ/w640-h636/kollaasihori4+%25282%2529-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Now, as for the arc method drafting instructions in Patterns of Fashion 5 book, the pattern is drawn on a curve. My main issue with it is, however, that the angles of the bust, waist and top hip curve angles are drawn more or less randomly by estimating. This is a problem especially for people like both my friend and myself who have a sway back, which means getting the waist curve exactly right is crucial for the comfort of the stays. A long time ago, when I made my first stays I was unaware of my sway back so the waistline of my first stays turned out to be too low in the back causing pain the lower back where the stays pressed uncomfortably into the back. I've since learned to raise the waist at the back of all of my patterns. For resolving this issue, I recommend you take a look at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6dzhexyw8E">Mariah Pattie's simple pattern drafting video</a> and/or <a href="http://sidneyeileen.com/sewing-2/sewing/corset-drafting/conical-block-torso/">Sidney Eileen's basic conical block drafting tutorial</a> to compensate for where the PoF5 falls short. In the side view photo above the collage you can see how much higher the waist is at the back. Below is the final pattern. Notice the side of the front panel might be much more curved if a more pronounced 1780s shape was desired. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5fgJM289H1yq1_VKZjyY6JFNP0QOMRJdT64BzfQVSeY3TryETfrIHETAVMxxuV_iIUhRi1AxvBWomhbggzQY6L6mASZn-BCpNByhsc5sXe0csX7xfK_LwyiFfWPNHPBG5cllSwmHEMM/s2048/IMG_2190-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5fgJM289H1yq1_VKZjyY6JFNP0QOMRJdT64BzfQVSeY3TryETfrIHETAVMxxuV_iIUhRi1AxvBWomhbggzQY6L6mASZn-BCpNByhsc5sXe0csX7xfK_LwyiFfWPNHPBG5cllSwmHEMM/w640-h426/IMG_2190-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Since these stays are drafted to extend below the natural waist, it's important that enough space is allowed for the high hip in the pattern (this, naturally applies to everyone, not just someone with a sway back).</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBMfK2Sb6Gv6tic0x10C3XOdHDkcmEymuJVd-FqKvgAcUE21y69Jcq0q4uDgEj8pQWiIYA0PuMMSNMCdgJKnqWGTmT8kzCHqfvfYneg7waGqmJshmDNDqcfb0ROBCMCzAtp8QiufscnFE/s2048/IMG_20210102_193853.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBMfK2Sb6Gv6tic0x10C3XOdHDkcmEymuJVd-FqKvgAcUE21y69Jcq0q4uDgEj8pQWiIYA0PuMMSNMCdgJKnqWGTmT8kzCHqfvfYneg7waGqmJshmDNDqcfb0ROBCMCzAtp8QiufscnFE/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_193853.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I've wanted to try out the shoulder straps that cross at the back at least ever since <a href="https://chemise-a-la-reine.blogspot.com/2012/10/stays-and-chemise-gown.html">Sarah posted pictures of such here</a>. Finally did! It only took me years... Anyway, I think I may have to move the loops they are attached through slightly more towards the back. As can be seen from the photos, the straps go around the shoulders very far out on the shoulder line and I fear they may slip down on the arms. Pia has sloping shoulders so that makes it even more likely. However, the last time the stays got worn to an event, no slipping happened so we might just leave them as they are so we can be sure they also don't show from the wider necklines of the gowns. Time will tell. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ccd_MWu5WjTzniLetizEHmyXDpRFFJwfwIWJvDCPNzC6Q4H2Gwx7Y9DlzYlhnIPFzMIwKM_2r3bGM2xU7Tjr8JskE2bDyYOcBExqHVfal0IBuOwTjZLiHU6yOjJqvVGe_oJgQObr7IM/s2048/IMG_20210102_195921.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ccd_MWu5WjTzniLetizEHmyXDpRFFJwfwIWJvDCPNzC6Q4H2Gwx7Y9DlzYlhnIPFzMIwKM_2r3bGM2xU7Tjr8JskE2bDyYOcBExqHVfal0IBuOwTjZLiHU6yOjJqvVGe_oJgQObr7IM/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_195921.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Another photo of the McCord Museum stays for comparison. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMkSZCE9xfgSiUYUknQRjiwsne4cAE6LPaTg9SEMZFxfyQFqvpMd3TjrNnUhunWmXlvLLbsbzryntAfq7BLxp4ZxVh7GauFncbrmgO6ic3UiyXgERVH_iq7dFw-oT97mbUNng_wiVGg6A/s768/M969X.26-P6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="551" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMkSZCE9xfgSiUYUknQRjiwsne4cAE6LPaTg9SEMZFxfyQFqvpMd3TjrNnUhunWmXlvLLbsbzryntAfq7BLxp4ZxVh7GauFncbrmgO6ic3UiyXgERVH_iq7dFw-oT97mbUNng_wiVGg6A/w460-h640/M969X.26-P6.jpg" width="460" /></a></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/collection/artifacts/M969X.26" target="_blank">Stays, 1785-1790 © McCord Museum</a> (Photo shared under the </span><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.5/ca/" target="_blank">CC BY-NC-ND 2.5 CA licence</a></span></span><span style="font-size: small;">)</span></div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO03TWvjGjslUl9rZQYO8WpMFklu2Up19j6u_ghqioDANdakg-pT3AptNvLsFZ_BtuF8mEmy40PmnpWbDGWeXa9dvmEVS_VQ8nr5FXfn-hyG_ZwS4VYhOlcFQUt8MPeae2qLKQAs9VLXA/s2048/IMG_20210102_195952.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO03TWvjGjslUl9rZQYO8WpMFklu2Up19j6u_ghqioDANdakg-pT3AptNvLsFZ_BtuF8mEmy40PmnpWbDGWeXa9dvmEVS_VQ8nr5FXfn-hyG_ZwS4VYhOlcFQUt8MPeae2qLKQAs9VLXA/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_195952.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Had I been more perfectionistic about the stays or if I were to make another pair of stays from the same pattern for her, I would probably fix a few minor things about them, mainly, I think the top edge might ideally come up slightly higher in the back, for example. I was afraid of making them too high so they'd show from the back of gowns and that's probably why I ended up making it a bit too low. But none of that or other minor faults makes any major difference to the basic function of the stays and the shape they give. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_OVN44CDCkLqCTvIoApK6-TIwbZJ8QLVaERFq2su5KVQPjbcQJ__xte_S9jLGboY9Z3VX2aEDauzAc9YCimg3OznXn2OERqaVC8GQnj8KlgL7t7lFitRNJxMjkIOrjzmR_9lsoxSsjg/s2048/IMG_20210102_194058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_OVN44CDCkLqCTvIoApK6-TIwbZJ8QLVaERFq2su5KVQPjbcQJ__xte_S9jLGboY9Z3VX2aEDauzAc9YCimg3OznXn2OERqaVC8GQnj8KlgL7t7lFitRNJxMjkIOrjzmR_9lsoxSsjg/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_194058.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">The stays can be laced at the back or the front depending whether there's help available for getting dressed or not. I didn't bother with any of the extra reinforcements for the stomach or other parts - the busk will do just enough for keeping the peak (the lower part of the front panels) of the stays down. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKggoGFu-DD1DxdSjWFIJjXkrPZp0Xl0_rmzAN7e45L1XHKIZymP-4gNNNuOtOC4EIKXohC_2qjlvF3tcJaQTH-8mTVSd1HuXvGtnMZVo89U8rEFKwWVdZeateseGnwFp8wz6G0cWarOU/s2048/IMG_20210102_204058.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKggoGFu-DD1DxdSjWFIJjXkrPZp0Xl0_rmzAN7e45L1XHKIZymP-4gNNNuOtOC4EIKXohC_2qjlvF3tcJaQTH-8mTVSd1HuXvGtnMZVo89U8rEFKwWVdZeateseGnwFp8wz6G0cWarOU/w640-h480/IMG_20210102_204058.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Some close-ups of the details... </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJLsCrn_njqPzKc8t335SWyUgoDnmyFnkUaLV4v7Ce9DAV8hId4oVk9X55ml-TgV83CkUgpvwKHKQErsBf9HDAtfIHCeMNyj8-bCHK5dAp2kAwn5VC1XkIrLbr_t9eNFTe604JaD_FJ_8/s2048/IMG_20210102_195820.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJLsCrn_njqPzKc8t335SWyUgoDnmyFnkUaLV4v7Ce9DAV8hId4oVk9X55ml-TgV83CkUgpvwKHKQErsBf9HDAtfIHCeMNyj8-bCHK5dAp2kAwn5VC1XkIrLbr_t9eNFTe604JaD_FJ_8/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_195820.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">The photo below shows one of the two hooks the straps attach to.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgnlElfA9jBdlkjLSqaT0ezRL8mvIIRh9rXDN56sBofRCkmhW82mInIMXfqgovpP6com30F6qDImY5jYlnWDmZvlqmCsIJmYVYK1KYOMHg0r_Ve-QIcieImnxnSqr0jcXlJPKEHmsJVM/s2048/IMG_20210102_204128-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmgnlElfA9jBdlkjLSqaT0ezRL8mvIIRh9rXDN56sBofRCkmhW82mInIMXfqgovpP6com30F6qDImY5jYlnWDmZvlqmCsIJmYVYK1KYOMHg0r_Ve-QIcieImnxnSqr0jcXlJPKEHmsJVM/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_204128-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Another thing one might nitpick about... the boning channels ought to be ever so slightly thinner. That would provide more sturdiness as well as prevent the channels/stitching lines from twisting as much as they do now. Cutting the bones for the channels longer so that the panels would stay taut might help with the wrinkling of the fabric, however, it is also something that tends to happen when stays are entirely made out of linen without so much stiffening. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBa7i81adaDjDTZ_YTdinMdFAeo4GPU4XQH0-j_nMBVrUJMzDhl4rUm6KzKkOn-PT9XC3088J4a4w7dqLjFTLTeQWVBtrG3a_1OXRBCuvpBaFTZa2HjEhCP56gOjSSCCTUNN-hqmrqPjk/s2048/IMG_20210102_204220-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBa7i81adaDjDTZ_YTdinMdFAeo4GPU4XQH0-j_nMBVrUJMzDhl4rUm6KzKkOn-PT9XC3088J4a4w7dqLjFTLTeQWVBtrG3a_1OXRBCuvpBaFTZa2HjEhCP56gOjSSCCTUNN-hqmrqPjk/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_204220-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The straps are sewn to the underarms of the front panels, conveniently providing more protection for an area that is one of the first places where the stays will quickly start to show wear. </div><div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKQjReggg3GrqKzVW1RAEli5jqBVM0LEVMF8Fe8vrW_3Lub_VRpLvada8UAs53D6h5pnfDNIFbrDrB7LqoIwQr5W7b9JObLWblojprjn_EQJ3RuE7pLBoAUtGJXyKt1NDcNXGtE2Vw5g/s2048/IMG_20210102_204251-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1365" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKQjReggg3GrqKzVW1RAEli5jqBVM0LEVMF8Fe8vrW_3Lub_VRpLvada8UAs53D6h5pnfDNIFbrDrB7LqoIwQr5W7b9JObLWblojprjn_EQJ3RuE7pLBoAUtGJXyKt1NDcNXGtE2Vw5g/w426-h640/IMG_20210102_204251-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I managed to stitch the binding at the top on entirely by the machine but the lower edge proved to be too difficult a challenge for me so I quickly basted the binding down by hand at first and then secured it into place with the machine. It worked out nicely; it was still faster than doing it entirely by hand, while ensuring a neatly bound edge at the same time. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4paNXhgCPGDRNYNZKoB5AUCkeMw46VXe6mPGWgpFUnikl7RsVCxvtswPVOnr-H2S0g22q1lSmpFLFCvH3moC4IT8T7w4CTNW1vMbFdXOq1ux0QSXVX8MKc3pvtEH5V4AitJSuCxPeK5Q/s2048/IMG_20210102_204259-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4paNXhgCPGDRNYNZKoB5AUCkeMw46VXe6mPGWgpFUnikl7RsVCxvtswPVOnr-H2S0g22q1lSmpFLFCvH3moC4IT8T7w4CTNW1vMbFdXOq1ux0QSXVX8MKc3pvtEH5V4AitJSuCxPeK5Q/w640-h426/IMG_20210102_204259-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">We also took this video of the stays so you can see them in 360°. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='503' height='418' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzgqMfWyDUX4_CSt3FINDyTWIjJwru0upDS_us-VLnIMCWG7RI5vn22fHbl7Xjd1Rpj2mqbLKk0OyIBUq2p2Q' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">And the stays make an appearance on <a href="https://youtu.be/KVqb6SUXWx4">a getting dressed video we did last summer</a>, too.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="357" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KVqb6SUXWx4" width="502" youtube-src-id="KVqb6SUXWx4"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I hope you find the post helpful! If you made it this far, let me know! :) </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div>Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-40480050404912530802019-07-29T21:28:00.002+03:002019-07-29T21:45:18.277+03:00An 18th century day at Suomenlinna, 2017When it comes to historical events and travelling, the past three years have been busier for me than any of my previous years in the hobby before. It has been absolutely wonderful but it also meant that when I've been at home, I have been frantically preparing for a trip on my time off, which lead to the complete neglect of this blog. With the limited free time and energy available, I've chosen sewing over updating the blog. Also, in the past three years I've found, like so many of you, that Instagram has been a more convenient place for me to share my work and photos of events. However, I never wanted to give up on this blog either because I feel like having a more permanent place for my photos and I still want to write posts about my costumes every once in a while.<br />
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This post is about an event back in July 2017. I didn't plan to go to it because I found out about it just a couple of weeks before it took place. However, it was too fun an event to pass up, so I made a bit of an impromptu trip to Helsinki for a weekend.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2TRVoBxEAcGy35F3Urln_6iapMzttmWvzEqNWOlPRnpiUnJcezi05nty5V4_ZHjRHu_I04tsS2u_uGOe2FZ1h_eVexIE-HhHnstoVnPzMmKNq5LcVIVfNC4-Yviej6u2T-3zXJwtJzCQ/s1600/IMG_5664.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2TRVoBxEAcGy35F3Urln_6iapMzttmWvzEqNWOlPRnpiUnJcezi05nty5V4_ZHjRHu_I04tsS2u_uGOe2FZ1h_eVexIE-HhHnstoVnPzMmKNq5LcVIVfNC4-Yviej6u2T-3zXJwtJzCQ/s640/IMG_5664.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The neat thing about this day was that we got to travel to Suomenlinna islands in proper 18th century style on an 18th century reproduction <a href="http://www.tykkisluuppi.com/english/" target="_blank">cannon sloop Diana</a>! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMX3KHOhjv9sTkqN5m6RS6KMOMFKNXUoVq2x4gTR-gQA8awxlAmmCpFmqbfrFBCj7ogPEvEreL07lH1LAyuts8r11USN4FBslCOw9pgiF43RyaenfZIkXokLT8opebXOuNnKXzT4dw9N4/s1600/IMG_5666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMX3KHOhjv9sTkqN5m6RS6KMOMFKNXUoVq2x4gTR-gQA8awxlAmmCpFmqbfrFBCj7ogPEvEreL07lH1LAyuts8r11USN4FBslCOw9pgiF43RyaenfZIkXokLT8opebXOuNnKXzT4dw9N4/s640/IMG_5666.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It may have been July but the weather made it seem more like September.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjg_m9IgmfJUr95aJfvh8qlEDj2bdAdjL9iuMLoiwfLHV_oweD2b5o3ofPeoCwSztTnj2VRfAsms12gheL8gT2hZRQfN1IlU_Ne1lxJX8JzLqZCTcTYIgVl23NXaVaIUeT0e5zH7SwPo/s1600/IMG_5678.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJjg_m9IgmfJUr95aJfvh8qlEDj2bdAdjL9iuMLoiwfLHV_oweD2b5o3ofPeoCwSztTnj2VRfAsms12gheL8gT2hZRQfN1IlU_Ne1lxJX8JzLqZCTcTYIgVl23NXaVaIUeT0e5zH7SwPo/s640/IMG_5678.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some members of <a href="http://www.hww.fi/index.php?id=120" target="_blank">the Olde Militia of Helsinki</a> and <a href="http://karoliinit.fi/www2/in-english/" target="_blank">Nylands Karoliner</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5_iESZXrUEEO4VB7SjyGYVpqA-O4vNf2DNkTmkOBD1vOO_zjiryP-W9D-3CngVV8RrnJUX_WEM4ND5HG_1HFR_GwM5XY65PLJaz3Ti30Tg_2PuO3RT_IbhXhMhUZb4yKaA7-nPhPtjU/s1600/IMG_5689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn5_iESZXrUEEO4VB7SjyGYVpqA-O4vNf2DNkTmkOBD1vOO_zjiryP-W9D-3CngVV8RrnJUX_WEM4ND5HG_1HFR_GwM5XY65PLJaz3Ti30Tg_2PuO3RT_IbhXhMhUZb4yKaA7-nPhPtjU/s640/IMG_5689.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The whole passenger group captured upon arrival to Suomenlinna. </div>
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<a href="https://scontent-hel2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19904915_1413927655327294_5324870185715599144_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_eui2=AeFEli4J9cqVS6wG0PUCrLPpi1Es_IpyypA1PZMuE8L5FaOZxQXOnxu0RWM-o8HeebTZkrXHEWzgQDvvXBokDzDRmEC7oSV14_kksE5Rm7WKKw&_nc_oc=AQm2VugQ-4TT2fVDreZqVKzH2XlMnahAq2NGFcyrsJz1V0yVnxfant6eVB91L4ShZfQ&_nc_ht=scontent-hel2-1.xx&oh=834e9028595d708150d4fe07dd8d941b&oe=5DA04DC0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://scontent-hel2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19904915_1413927655327294_5324870185715599144_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_eui2=AeFEli4J9cqVS6wG0PUCrLPpi1Es_IpyypA1PZMuE8L5FaOZxQXOnxu0RWM-o8HeebTZkrXHEWzgQDvvXBokDzDRmEC7oSV14_kksE5Rm7WKKw&_nc_oc=AQm2VugQ-4TT2fVDreZqVKzH2XlMnahAq2NGFcyrsJz1V0yVnxfant6eVB91L4ShZfQ&_nc_ht=scontent-hel2-1.xx&oh=834e9028595d708150d4fe07dd8d941b&oe=5DA04DC0" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once we got to Suomenlinna, we set up a picnic and played some pall-mall, as per usual. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjojPaiyWIT6HjCu-ukjQTOVo9l-ZSWTyNkIQEeoxA6KjJDhpAJfUFuu2uF07vz1ZmgTnVed8PrY8FbBH3BzPlLixqF7-Xm7f6HCdJlrDp_skQwBjepk4qPJec6UXxvm_hv3BEx-ZBp9Tc/s1600/IMG_5697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjojPaiyWIT6HjCu-ukjQTOVo9l-ZSWTyNkIQEeoxA6KjJDhpAJfUFuu2uF07vz1ZmgTnVed8PrY8FbBH3BzPlLixqF7-Xm7f6HCdJlrDp_skQwBjepk4qPJec6UXxvm_hv3BEx-ZBp9Tc/s640/IMG_5697.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We also visited the commandant's house aka <a href="https://www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/museums/ehrensvard-museum/" target="_blank">the Ehrensvärd museum</a>, named after the founder of Suomenlinna sea fortress, Augustin Ehrensvärd, whose official residence the house was. The house was built in the 1750s and the interiors of the museum are furnished in 18th century style.<br />
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I had quickly sewn two new garments for the trip the week before; a red petticoat and a 1780s apron with ruffles.<br />
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However, Ehrensvärd actually didn't live in the house as he lived in a cottage <span style="font-size: x-small;">(that no longer exists on the islands)</span>.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Augustin Ehrensvärd (1710-1772), c. 1770, presumably after J. H. Scheffel.</span></div>
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Ehrensvärd was the first to have a tiled oven in Helsinki. Sadly the first oven from mid 1750s was destroyed in a bombing during the Crimean war in 1855 so the ones that are in the museum today are not original to the building.</div>
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Augustin Ehrensvärd was not only a military officer and architect but also an artist. There are several of Ehrensvärd's ink drawings on display at the museum.</div>
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We also got to see a minuet dance performance and enjoy some harp music while we were in the museum. </div>
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This was the first time <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ohgloomysunday/" target="_blank">Mia</a> invited her sister to join us to an event. Aren't they adorable? :)</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Portrait of Gustaf Mauritz Armfelt (1757-1814).</span></div>
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Afterwards we had lunch at the Café Piper. The weather had suddenly turned all summery so we played cards in the garden before heading home.</div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com38tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-23881564072607523732018-09-15T18:32:00.000+03:002018-09-15T19:16:49.035+03:00Pinstripe robe à l'Anglaise retroussée <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This dress is one that I started making back in 2015 but that I didn't finish until <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2017/07/christmas-ball-2016.html" target="_blank">Christmas ball in November 2016</a>. I also wore it to the Christmas ball the following year again, when the first set of these pictures were taken.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0J4SOvKY_ClSEIz15acTc_JkkHUf0Ee85q3xL1X8wws3WHERvWZAcdLMWoOmAG_yuOe7HIEWzXL6up4jEsN3WUKTahml_S3sdfO2fXusZzB6PgXvgTuSt7j89XoMqslUvYop7iEv9uU/s1600/_MG_8183-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP0J4SOvKY_ClSEIz15acTc_JkkHUf0Ee85q3xL1X8wws3WHERvWZAcdLMWoOmAG_yuOe7HIEWzXL6up4jEsN3WUKTahml_S3sdfO2fXusZzB6PgXvgTuSt7j89XoMqslUvYop7iEv9uU/s640/_MG_8183-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Previously I've made patterns in mainly two ways; either drafting my own patterns according to my measurements and trying to get the seam lines right by looking at extant gowns, or by enlarging scale patterns from books, altering them according to my measurements until they fit. I haven't really had as good results with either of these techniques as I'd like to have so it was about time I tried out something else. So I borrowed </span><i style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Creating-Historical-Clothes-Pattern-Victorian/dp/1849940487">Creating Historical Clothes: Pattern Cutting from Tudor to Victorian Times</a></i><span style="text-align: left;"> from <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ohgloomysunday/?hl=en" target="_blank">Mia</a></span><span style="text-align: left;"> because this book includes step by step instructions for creating patterns for several periods. </span><span style="text-align: left;">First you start by taking your own measurements and, comparing them to measurement charts, draft a basic bodice pattern. I chose to turn my basic bodice pattern into a 1770s style bodice from the book, except so </span><span style="text-align: left;">that it doesn't extend below the waist (see photo),</span><span style="text-align: left;"> and <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2015/08/a-simple-robe-en-chemise.html" target="_blank">used it as a base for the pattern for my first robe en chemise</a>. </span>Since the pattern was made to my measurements, it required very little alterations to make it fit, except that I had to take it in quite considerably in at the back. Later on, I completed the pattern into a 1770s bodice according to the instructions in the book.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fQEW_Py5aE2LMsTlAHwg2C-humDLMyfjxP7sXZ_JymGbCYxxpfzgrEt3UninrLmxx3HuQ-CKoywe7m9urQ2YJKGscp8ruJw-6BHMx1xvVEK5z9byvmTps9kXCq4ESTgIXm-YnNzoFZU/s1600/IMG_3349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-fQEW_Py5aE2LMsTlAHwg2C-humDLMyfjxP7sXZ_JymGbCYxxpfzgrEt3UninrLmxx3HuQ-CKoywe7m9urQ2YJKGscp8ruJw-6BHMx1xvVEK5z9byvmTps9kXCq4ESTgIXm-YnNzoFZU/s640/IMG_3349.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Bodice pattern before extending it below waist and alterations.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">But I wan't happy with the pattern as it was because I thought it didn't look quite right. (I wish I had took a picture at this point so you could compare it with my final pattern.) However, the pattern reminded me of the 1770-85 gown pattern on page 39 of <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Englishwomens-Construction-1660-1860/dp/089676026X" target="_blank">Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1</a> so I decided to try to alter my pattern to make it correspond with it. To me it seems the pattern in Creating Historical Clothes might be vaguely based on it, too. I won't go into detail describing all of the things I did because a. it's not that interesting and b. I can't actually even remember all of them anymore. But I ended up altering it quite a lot. In the end, I was slightly frustrated because I had spent so much time on the pattern and yet I wasn't completely happy about how the bodice looked. But eventually I thought it made no sense to keep fiddling with the pattern and decided it was good enough.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9aYPS2ZJ0G1tXe4GyLcJadJ_kF5fd8334TjxzLjRiXJ14xmYneAktfAD1X95nvDU5ZjgVx760HWRFBThdauYoe7CK-PHDBPmHqnNJKMF-RByDy76ZSjhMAn6S-40ceh5P0x9ru1MYQs/s1600/IMG_9736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1281" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD9aYPS2ZJ0G1tXe4GyLcJadJ_kF5fd8334TjxzLjRiXJ14xmYneAktfAD1X95nvDU5ZjgVx760HWRFBThdauYoe7CK-PHDBPmHqnNJKMF-RByDy76ZSjhMAn6S-40ceh5P0x9ru1MYQs/s640/IMG_9736.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The bodice after a great deal of adjustments.</span></div>
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I also experimented with a bodice construction method that I hadn't tried earlier (though I wish I had!): <a href="http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.fi/2011/03/how-to-do-weird-running-whip-stitch.html">"the weird running whip stitch thingy"</a> that is now known as the English stitch, thanks to the ladies of <a href="http://blog.americanduchess.com/" target="_blank">American Duchess</a>. I must say using this technique made matching the stripes easy. Not to mention how neat and tidy it makes the inside of your bodice, too (as can be seen below).<br />
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Here's a close-up of the finished seam, before removing the basting stitches:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBLnWbhlZ0B9nf04N0l50Sa0t8AR4aWZN0H0wyEEIxQ62QqSskonq_GAsyVmAUiqwhlG0TXypWaGakSQ4zmWOR0yEpPc0xNnj29-3NV5oqARdLFvJBdwJdT7c02a7Me4QI1ANp5rQG6U/s1600/DSC_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBLnWbhlZ0B9nf04N0l50Sa0t8AR4aWZN0H0wyEEIxQ62QqSskonq_GAsyVmAUiqwhlG0TXypWaGakSQ4zmWOR0yEpPc0xNnj29-3NV5oqARdLFvJBdwJdT7c02a7Me4QI1ANp5rQG6U/s640/DSC_0002.JPG" width="436" /></a></div>
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The finished bodice seen from the outside:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyk0iqBJTF-EG_HHH0po8_QmDNaNy_WTgV0WMa5xLK71gjnHnxpF_cxyAVIoMWDFz9jZqwL-jY6jip-0NWwUITFZZS5OTK-Q_vI5OrGyBIIhHaecTF_IXYpvnm5tcOpn6V1SOZabuhu28/s1600/IMG_4595-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyk0iqBJTF-EG_HHH0po8_QmDNaNy_WTgV0WMa5xLK71gjnHnxpF_cxyAVIoMWDFz9jZqwL-jY6jip-0NWwUITFZZS5OTK-Q_vI5OrGyBIIhHaecTF_IXYpvnm5tcOpn6V1SOZabuhu28/s640/IMG_4595-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And the inside:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaSIPgOpAgre1rJwI4MkpH2upEPTjmzVbGPOxPdH1GZZFkfcdWmHsXmX_pT4do7kwUZIaCLqYVGpSQITkVw3zhYttsIONIExukvAOcPi6dnp2QJaGFktcMKPEwV28vfKt6k3mwqzkgq3k/s1600/IMG_4601-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaSIPgOpAgre1rJwI4MkpH2upEPTjmzVbGPOxPdH1GZZFkfcdWmHsXmX_pT4do7kwUZIaCLqYVGpSQITkVw3zhYttsIONIExukvAOcPi6dnp2QJaGFktcMKPEwV28vfKt6k3mwqzkgq3k/s640/IMG_4601-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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At this point I drafted the pattern for the sleeves with the instructions in Creating Historical Clothes and had some fit issues with them as well. The finished sleeves (after alterations) look alright but I can barely lift my arms in them so I might add <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2016/06/williamsburg-print-gown-aka-yet-another.html" target="_blank">a little triangle to the underarm</a> to allow for more mobility.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9mxtcyN9EqbgHZJeeZWcjX-s4xtC85n-zsGIrCQJuiXvl3Eiy5SkWlIsvvNOzmnFQLzoNDXPtVlMUAoalKtx4te-6jm1_Zc0QVrJ4l7U_Fy7o3ExEQeatwwhxzcWeot6CPdf6QnYMRio/s1600/_MG_8196-2+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9mxtcyN9EqbgHZJeeZWcjX-s4xtC85n-zsGIrCQJuiXvl3Eiy5SkWlIsvvNOzmnFQLzoNDXPtVlMUAoalKtx4te-6jm1_Zc0QVrJ4l7U_Fy7o3ExEQeatwwhxzcWeot6CPdf6QnYMRio/s640/_MG_8196-2+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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After that, it was time to decide on the trim. I wanted to trim the gown in some way, even though the most of extant robes à l'Anglaise aren't trimmed at all or only have a little bit of trim. But I didn't want to use the same trim style as the one in Patterns of Fashion, as it's the style that most people use and I thought it would be fun to do something a little different. So I spent some time researching options (<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-%C3%A0-langlaise/ways-to-trim/" target="_blank">which are collected on my Pinterest</a>) but, as you can tell, I ended up using the same old trim style as everybody else, as I concluded that I liked it the best after all. *facepalm*<br />
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When it came to the sleeve trim, I really liked the wide trim seen <a href="http://raylenesramblings.blogspot.com/2011/09/costumes-oh-my.html" target="_blank">on this beautiful costume from the Duchess</a>. But I wanted to find validation for the trim style in historical sources. Alas, I was in no luck - which honestly didn't surprise me - so I gave up the idea. It's a trim style that appears to have mainly been used on <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-a-la-polonaise/fashion-plates-etc/" target="_blank">robes à la Polonaise</a>.<br />
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As usual, Mia did my hair for the evening and I did hers. We arranged a little public toilette before the event officially begun.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mia working on my hairdo after I had finished hers.</span></div>
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When it comes to late 1770s, there's no such thing as too much hair decoration, right? ;)</div>
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And there's even a short video clip from the ball (unfortunately the quality is bad because this was taken on Mia's phone :/).</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dynpKV_4lsW15iAjvxOaEAfAqEayjO4apRta3bcpAwV5JidRYR5SmsuAuSXTla7w1FQIjhFJgkyGanTbhUQqQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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I also wore this dress to a small informal ball in January earlier this year and Mia kindly snapped these detail pictures of my gown and hairdo after the ball.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82uN5LPweEo_fyErEWAui50HUNYx6Esu5WoK0jTKNX4qY3YO3PIPU2AmjWV-bCVx4reEWKxk-OX5o4cQL8mBLJ_v4jjZeRVsyjw_nPLR0Mvv8qsugicyQCkuRxCuhyphenhyphenQzibvHaJp167E8/s1600/IMG_8510-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82uN5LPweEo_fyErEWAui50HUNYx6Esu5WoK0jTKNX4qY3YO3PIPU2AmjWV-bCVx4reEWKxk-OX5o4cQL8mBLJ_v4jjZeRVsyjw_nPLR0Mvv8qsugicyQCkuRxCuhyphenhyphenQzibvHaJp167E8/s640/IMG_8510-1.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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So here's a dirty little secret: I didn't intend to put trim down the center front (it's not something you see on historical examples and it even hides my careful stripe matching) but the hook and eye closure of the bodice stretched the lining a bit so there's a narrow but ugly gap at the front. Hence this was the last time I used hooks and eyes as a closure on my 18th century gowns. While hooks and eyes make a dress easy and quick to put on, I prefer to be able to adjust the bodice with a center front pieces that are lapped and pinned.<br />
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Despite of the difficulties I had making this dress, I do like the gown anyhow. :)</div>
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Links related to this project: </div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/1770s-hair-caps-and-hats/" target="_blank">1770s hair caps and hats</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-portraits-of-women/1770s/" target="_blank">18th century: Portraits of Women: 1770s</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-construction-details/" target="_blank">18th century: Costruction details</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-%C3%A0-langlaise/" target="_blank">18th century: Robe à l'Anglaise</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Costume-Detail-1730-1930-Nancy-Bradfield/dp/0896762173" target="_blank"><i>Costume in Detail: 1730-1930</i> by Nancy Bradfireld</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Englishwomens-Construction-1660-1860/dp/089676026X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1536949932&sr=1-1&keywords=janet+arnold" target="_blank"><i>Patterns of Fashion: c. 1660-1860 </i>by Janet Arnold</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1348724" target="_blank">Original open robe in National Trust</a></div>
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Has anyone of you tried to draft a pattern with the instructions in Creating Historical Clothes? I'd love to hear your thoughts about it if you have! Personally, I'm not going to use it again (unless someone can point out a good pattern from it). Mia has also tried to make a pair of stays with this book and didn't have good results either. In conclusion: If you're thinking about buying this book, I wouldn't recommend getting it. </div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-72064828828424811782018-07-17T15:34:00.001+03:002018-07-25T10:03:46.205+03:00Regency essentials: A little white dress - part II<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Alright, here comes the second part of the post about my little white regency dress, with pictures of it being worn. The following few photos were taken after returning from <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2017/01/second-gustavian-day-in-vaasa.html" target="_blank">an event</a> so please excuse my poor curls that have loosened in damp weather. We quickly pinned them up because they were way too long for the correct look (although my hair was too long to create proper regency side curls anyhow). </div>
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<a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Noora</a> kindly let me borrow her long-sleeved chemisette and bonnet for our event so I could complete my day look. Doesn't that bonnet just look great!</div>
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In these photos you can see that the sleeves aren't as puffy as they ought to be. I didn't add a lining to the sleeves because I wanted them to be sheer but without any support the fabric was too thin to hold up the shape of the sleeves properly. </div>
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I loved this silly look! I know it isn't a flattering look to modern eyes but I don't care! ;)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdsjuVIyfjkSdxFV8mAXAbL7z99pC59wqyRlZAI8IScb2Zb9Bc7Xd-6woneRKnrdeHMVbD1GmiSRaJ2Ee51JETv79fP7Me9ubjpe88i9erm7kmyqn-l7OVM_mo0w0l33lHeMR116Ofkw/s1600/IMG_4377.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdsjuVIyfjkSdxFV8mAXAbL7z99pC59wqyRlZAI8IScb2Zb9Bc7Xd-6woneRKnrdeHMVbD1GmiSRaJ2Ee51JETv79fP7Me9ubjpe88i9erm7kmyqn-l7OVM_mo0w0l33lHeMR116Ofkw/s640/IMG_4377.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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And here you can see my underwear that I was wearing under the dress. I made a shift with short sleeves, short stays with a front closure and added more tucks to my already existing petticoat. The front lacing of the stays is very practical for getting dressed on your own, however, it doesn't create the correct separation effect that a proper busk would. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDn_w48U1Ue9C0sBHXdwRTL4SnU_Hwqb8KzOuVwQxtEi3t4-B7iI5Tz8glsYYNSrxaSrJj-Hx0j4dEQ11TA31YiRz0aE58KUUNt_7002N4lFF6NlzD6VRNDPvrHl-CshRPzigzMj_zPew/s1600/IMG_4454-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDn_w48U1Ue9C0sBHXdwRTL4SnU_Hwqb8KzOuVwQxtEi3t4-B7iI5Tz8glsYYNSrxaSrJj-Hx0j4dEQ11TA31YiRz0aE58KUUNt_7002N4lFF6NlzD6VRNDPvrHl-CshRPzigzMj_zPew/s400/IMG_4454-2.jpg" width="266" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEC-YOL7bAn2Sy1tSPME1geZ9aLwc1qVtAfdSf5cwT3ADRWvyPWdfzVIZGbT3lid7pztdft-xCI-WpJiqCM0Kc3qndvauYtkwHC4MZ10huXCiO4H6ewGIAxTSd0surR6ZgDIqNdOlkB4A/s1600/IMG_4444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEC-YOL7bAn2Sy1tSPME1geZ9aLwc1qVtAfdSf5cwT3ADRWvyPWdfzVIZGbT3lid7pztdft-xCI-WpJiqCM0Kc3qndvauYtkwHC4MZ10huXCiO4H6ewGIAxTSd0surR6ZgDIqNdOlkB4A/s400/IMG_4444.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Even though I haven't personally worn this dress again, it luckily hasn't lingered in my closet completely unused! <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ohgloomysunday/?hl=en" target="_blank">Mia</a> borrowed it for the Jane Austen ball at <a href="http://skoklostersslott.se/en" target="_blank">Skokloster Castle</a> in Sweden last year. She looked absolutely lovely in it! And isn't her pineapple reticule just adorable!</div>
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It was fun to see someone else wearing my dress. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYL7TAf0bgcKp7bQzVXFI1bSqjr6alV_YC2SenCCPfbrE4rtVSiIDRaMta9C1zHKmZ9iLpHxxYbwtIA57EIX29abYuetY18Avvq2Crn6gz2UrhW8fSCloSgF3RVYy2-4V5KHmBIOZllY/s1600/IMG_7796.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYL7TAf0bgcKp7bQzVXFI1bSqjr6alV_YC2SenCCPfbrE4rtVSiIDRaMta9C1zHKmZ9iLpHxxYbwtIA57EIX29abYuetY18Avvq2Crn6gz2UrhW8fSCloSgF3RVYy2-4V5KHmBIOZllY/s640/IMG_7796.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The dress fit surprisingly well for Mia. It was maybe just a tad short, even if regency ball gowns could actually be quite short.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNM0R3p03oZZJNLdbuvPja5heXcXRM04nuvyn2mCHwAqwCuSEidArA7OXGivaXEvxGYqWb0T42wMg1I7hD8aRO_KSebDo0uXZKy82UrX8wN4KAJi9Oz1JxJBqDwMesUhUQ9I74016ny3s/s1600/IMG_7660-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNM0R3p03oZZJNLdbuvPja5heXcXRM04nuvyn2mCHwAqwCuSEidArA7OXGivaXEvxGYqWb0T42wMg1I7hD8aRO_KSebDo0uXZKy82UrX8wN4KAJi9Oz1JxJBqDwMesUhUQ9I74016ny3s/s640/IMG_7660-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Mia wore a chemise (dated 1820-1840) that I made from the <i>Regency Women's Dress</i> book (see pages 12-13) and gave to her. The pattern was unaltered so it's a direct copy from the book. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruxGuBepKTR1q5Do3t1mRhaqyeM9nwZyYdkbWAnMsDj5qIBuMQUo-F1sKfaI7yfriYFpYOYH5Gq0SVpiOFqD2gzMbhMnQBelM6dmO4EuP_SEaY2Pb6O_fVz8MG8dugTCGC3rKTC7lUHA/s1600/IMG_7885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgruxGuBepKTR1q5Do3t1mRhaqyeM9nwZyYdkbWAnMsDj5qIBuMQUo-F1sKfaI7yfriYFpYOYH5Gq0SVpiOFqD2gzMbhMnQBelM6dmO4EuP_SEaY2Pb6O_fVz8MG8dugTCGC3rKTC7lUHA/s320/IMG_7885.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXnmxn_6GehsIKWprxOC_MoqJxvHTM_lBmurpeyCx4pg8XdZsLI2Cy0PCoblXGY5CoGkn2HS9VtKUF14HU-5VWUiDFu6Seu6uX47cXQMiD8K7aprisMOlecEAgjxMAmpJ5v05ycPys7qQ/s1600/IMG_7893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXnmxn_6GehsIKWprxOC_MoqJxvHTM_lBmurpeyCx4pg8XdZsLI2Cy0PCoblXGY5CoGkn2HS9VtKUF14HU-5VWUiDFu6Seu6uX47cXQMiD8K7aprisMOlecEAgjxMAmpJ5v05ycPys7qQ/s320/IMG_7893.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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The chemise worked really well under this gown as it supported the puffy sleeves quite well, so the sleeves actually looked nicer this time!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnv28LBA8vbzAAdlq69IMvzr83pDAX3TwEy_OimF9LkaH5w3Y2XsLLmjf6uUcIOnZvDNU1lJb-M7vmQVWE7di7WNErWHVAeMo9_VDmVH8GneCmDFi2v997TUqBOgGeW3GNAlozBw9aHpI/s1600/IMG_7645-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnv28LBA8vbzAAdlq69IMvzr83pDAX3TwEy_OimF9LkaH5w3Y2XsLLmjf6uUcIOnZvDNU1lJb-M7vmQVWE7di7WNErWHVAeMo9_VDmVH8GneCmDFi2v997TUqBOgGeW3GNAlozBw9aHpI/s640/IMG_7645-5.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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In case you're interested in reading about the construction of this gown, <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2018/05/regency-essentials-little-white-dress_6.html" target="_blank">check out my previous blog pos about it.</a></div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-33505530642598813342018-07-13T16:00:00.004+03:002018-07-14T00:51:40.119+03:00Photos from L'Amusette's spring ball at Haihara Manor, 2017.This time I'm here to share some pictures from a ball more than a year ago. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Better late than never, right?)</span> I've already <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2016/08/lamusettes-masquerade-ball.html" target="_blank">posted about this event once before</a> - it's an annual masquerade ball hosted by <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/quelscandale/" target="_blank">the dance group L'Amusette</a> every spring in Haihara Manor in Tampere, Finland. I've been lucky enough to be able to go every year since they started organizing it since 2013 and it's always the highlight of the spring. :) As usual, I was way too busy enjoying the event to take of pictures during the official program but I did take some outfit photos of my friends and they turned out nicely so I'm excited to share them with you. At the end of this post you can also see a couple of photos (by Markku Arvonen) of the actual program.<br />
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Mia (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/ohgloomysunday/?hl=en" target="_blank">@ohgloomysunday)</a> had made a new gown and a utterly fabulous cap which I adore! The first photo is also possibly my all time favorite photo I've captured of her.<br />
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Noora totally rocked the 1790s look - she always looks like a vision in her empire dresses and like she has just stepped out of one of the period fashion plates! You can see <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.com/2017/04/1790s-round-gown-and-beaded-bodice-at.html" target="_blank">more pictures of her outfit on her blog.</a><br />
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At this ball we had the pleasure of meeting Anna-Mari (aka <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mollamaricreations/?hl=en" target="_blank">@mollamaricreations</a>) for the first time in real life. She has since become a regular member of our 18th century sewing gang in Finland. She such a talented crafts person and an inspiration! ;)<br />
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Since she doesn't have her own costume blog, I must share with you several pictures of her outfit. I just can't believe this was her first 18th century gown! Well, technically it was the second but I'm not counting the one she had made years before joining the world of historical costuming.<br />
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By the way, she based her gown on the robe à l'Anglaise pattern (diagram XXII) in <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017MYH70M/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i4" target="_blank">The Cut of Women's Clothes</a>. It's <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/search/label/Brown%20Indienne%20print%20gown" target="_blank">the same pattern I scaled up for my brown Indienne print gown</a> - it was so much fun to see another version of it come to life!<br />
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Mia also made a chemise dress for her little niece. These photos of them turned out so adorable I couldn't pick just one to share!<br />
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These pictures remind me of those tender late 18th century mother and child portraits by <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-children-parenthood/?eq=children&etslf=3633" target="_blank">George Romney and others (you can see more of them on my Pinterest board)</a>. I love that even Mia's gown matches with the gown the lady is wearing in the first one!<br />
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<a href="http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/full.php?ID=53299#" target="_blank"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Mrs Johnstone and her son, circa 1775-1780, by George Romney. </span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.historicalportraits.com/Gallery.asp?Page=Item&ItemID=1057&Desc=Lady-Georgina-Smyth-|-George-Romney" target="_blank">Portrait of Lady Georgina Smyth and her son, c. 1780, by George Romney. </a></span></div>
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I wore <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.com/2017/04/my-second-robe-en-chemise.html" target="_blank">my robe en chemise which I have already shown you here.</a> The spring ball always has a different theme and this time it was French revolution - hence the revolutionary accessories in my and other's outfits.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo by Markku Arvonen.</span></div>
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This year we also met the lovely twin sisters Essi and Emilia (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/loveforcostumes/?hl=en" target="_blank">@loveofcostumes</a>) who attended the ball for the first time.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo by Markku Arvonen.</span></div>
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At one point of the event we were horrified to witness the poor King and Queen of France loosing their heads in the (miniature) guillotine.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo by Markku Arvonen.</span></div>
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Afterwards the death of the King and Queen was reflected in the color of the food at dinner.</div>
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<a href="https://arvonen.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Haihara%20/DSC00388.jpg?img=img2048" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="558" height="640" src="https://arvonen.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Haihara%20/DSC00388.jpg?img=img2048" width="446" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo by Markku Arvonen.</span></div>
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Johanna brought her jewelry shop to the event as she often does.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSZI7TevblSmEn1P9ZzbKileL6h5biXM4JXk_IrVMgE6rGhaHW6ckLZ3lWH99QOZkphXZlVEdE4XwZDbNqRLp9oyyT2lUDPhDOPNOEmWw4YVRGHviSF0tV-W66VVu9qr5myKtKpFgxJ4/s1600/IMG_5478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHSZI7TevblSmEn1P9ZzbKileL6h5biXM4JXk_IrVMgE6rGhaHW6ckLZ3lWH99QOZkphXZlVEdE4XwZDbNqRLp9oyyT2lUDPhDOPNOEmWw4YVRGHviSF0tV-W66VVu9qr5myKtKpFgxJ4/s640/IMG_5478.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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To read another description of this event and see some great detail pictures, go check out <a href="http://www.evildressmaker.com/?p=12591" target="_blank">Rhia the Evil Dressmaker's blog post</a>.</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-45980926669070705772018-05-06T15:14:00.001+03:002019-07-30T00:11:08.706+03:00Regency essentials: A little white dress - part I<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Today I'm here to show you a dress that I finished nearly two years ago. I made it for <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2017/01/second-gustavian-day-in-vaasa.html" target="_blank">our second Gustavian day event in August 2016</a> and have, sadly, never worn it since. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpYOQJsV-lhuYE9YGSnJb0-YbBi335GaJZgSoZYte8itkZgJy7f4zBfuDLIm_MTFrVocbGtxiMXLeVaFOnkEV4-dX_0poxF4llz9iqfZ8PPZTaYkJs38PeBHL7WZn_F21M5VKrGd_znaI/s1600/IMG_9170-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpYOQJsV-lhuYE9YGSnJb0-YbBi335GaJZgSoZYte8itkZgJy7f4zBfuDLIm_MTFrVocbGtxiMXLeVaFOnkEV4-dX_0poxF4llz9iqfZ8PPZTaYkJs38PeBHL7WZn_F21M5VKrGd_znaI/s640/IMG_9170-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">This dress was probably the quickest and easiest gown that I've ever made so it took me less than a week to finish. I should definitely make more regency gowns just because it's so relaxing! :)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8mKqFa_RmNNktFVRElkovGRfGx_pybbEa__bowRDGc0oRG_2wP77nGZDtuc0-LoXqcLTMoKs2bhELfRl_OoCON2KNKYAySq32Y9_-P8O0OkCsOhu66gBBGWUX8QbZtbOa7Odp1cLVEs/s1600/IMG_9237-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV8mKqFa_RmNNktFVRElkovGRfGx_pybbEa__bowRDGc0oRG_2wP77nGZDtuc0-LoXqcLTMoKs2bhELfRl_OoCON2KNKYAySq32Y9_-P8O0OkCsOhu66gBBGWUX8QbZtbOa7Odp1cLVEs/s640/IMG_9237-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The bodice has a crossover front. Later on I learned that for a more typical early 1810s look there should be a small triangle shaped piece (that could also possibly be the front of <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/98041?rpp=20&pg=2&ft=bodice+fragment+cotton&pos=27%20" target="_blank">an under-bodice</a> or under-dress/bodiced petticoat showing) between the sides of the front (see an example of this in the painting a bit further below).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwDrTIYDj-gN9ehVIEeSx1Hln5U3fnjiJP6NM1JZSIIwdX845sPnzEOWSCxUwN2iEVoEVILZXPIroPDyFKnCQZPl_W0S-CtavmXPd8evpYAoX9826Ny30RdeURacV0mAenRvQiUnRKkA/s1600/IMG_9203-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmwDrTIYDj-gN9ehVIEeSx1Hln5U3fnjiJP6NM1JZSIIwdX845sPnzEOWSCxUwN2iEVoEVILZXPIroPDyFKnCQZPl_W0S-CtavmXPd8evpYAoX9826Ny30RdeURacV0mAenRvQiUnRKkA/s640/IMG_9203-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I scaled up a pattern for the bodice from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Period-Costume-Stage-Screen-1800-1909/dp/088734609X" target="_blank"><i>Period Costume from Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress</i> 1800-1909 by Jean Hunnisett</a> and altered the front to have a crossover front. The sleeve pattern also came from the same book.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWO4dB9guevMK68_ArtSOLNyg_EUvCX3Mdi8YwM3R6OX294HLRNS5vzCtvfdLV8VuIo1SxphmTSfyxfkgAVGPpOYgVVG-5SIUjIr8hGCpBkPM9N77T4s8qC4h28uyXFt6EsKbHEBq-8A/s1600/IMG_9267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrWO4dB9guevMK68_ArtSOLNyg_EUvCX3Mdi8YwM3R6OX294HLRNS5vzCtvfdLV8VuIo1SxphmTSfyxfkgAVGPpOYgVVG-5SIUjIr8hGCpBkPM9N77T4s8qC4h28uyXFt6EsKbHEBq-8A/s640/IMG_9267.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I decorated the neckline with cotton lace with a scalloped edge, to match with the scallops on the hem. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGbTT9IdHAXbi3hrBZbNJZN244huS4nsUZry2zsDzuqJQg8bUG228QrraztLgILNiN2cR2XxgLjkj5YbDMglCKkztyT-2r_rbE_DZqSNVb8CQC1YEXtjU1s7UtMEfKJd2GwB09hbnKRo/s1600/IMG_9205-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGbTT9IdHAXbi3hrBZbNJZN244huS4nsUZry2zsDzuqJQg8bUG228QrraztLgILNiN2cR2XxgLjkj5YbDMglCKkztyT-2r_rbE_DZqSNVb8CQC1YEXtjU1s7UtMEfKJd2GwB09hbnKRo/s640/IMG_9205-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This type of bodice seems to have been fashionable in the early 1810s. Notice how the neckline is much wider and lower cut than mine.</div>
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<a href="https://d30dcznuokq8w8.cloudfront.net/works/r/bal/2/3/0/145032_full_848x1024.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://d30dcznuokq8w8.cloudfront.net/works/r/bal/2/3/0/145032_full_848x1024.jpg" width="528" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman";">Portrait of a Lady by Fran</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #171717; font-family: "times new roman"; line-height: 20px;">çois Pascal Simon, Baron Gérard.</span></span></div>
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The neckline is pretty much the same as in this fashion plate.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszIVCfJyuxCa06UW9UYKKNE59-M1fNWh57hJQgQh949zPBtDPwH7Kitpbll5m0oGIoWP64Zp82f4z8zNq0kZzFPui3lfOdbkqB2LdlZaVgo0u8xxZ2jXvTIu3zID1RRmQItdBS_2lzNs/s1600/d618e9ec7c0680f06297f7260a4a0497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszIVCfJyuxCa06UW9UYKKNE59-M1fNWh57hJQgQh949zPBtDPwH7Kitpbll5m0oGIoWP64Zp82f4z8zNq0kZzFPui3lfOdbkqB2LdlZaVgo0u8xxZ2jXvTIu3zID1RRmQItdBS_2lzNs/s1600/d618e9ec7c0680f06297f7260a4a0497.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Costume Parisien fashion plate, 1810.</td></tr>
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My bodice closes with buttons and buttonholes in the back. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7L38_AmM_rGAPDrpb1cl8WBjx1CzQNjp6JhZ0GEOVotLTnn7RjCl_lbyoZ5n8wGRC4NJwFEOtS2bGAdOdtxiiZ-n1mDYYrnwp8DTHWuMPZZurSAXz3TIhQtXzfwpoQdzZVkCB_fGB_Xk/s1600/IMG_9241.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7L38_AmM_rGAPDrpb1cl8WBjx1CzQNjp6JhZ0GEOVotLTnn7RjCl_lbyoZ5n8wGRC4NJwFEOtS2bGAdOdtxiiZ-n1mDYYrnwp8DTHWuMPZZurSAXz3TIhQtXzfwpoQdzZVkCB_fGB_Xk/s640/IMG_9241.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">(Please ignore the underpetticoat straps showing through the fabric. I didn't put all my white regency undies on my mannequin so that's why they can be seen here...)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDljFdl_o-GGerxPoTokNMHHiGwkonpfIxb98CRIH9sLDW0mGdKcuIwLr3MjNCXwE5ODUKLdCYzD1yJwouk9X-SO4cGecpNXmsGnmORb3N2M7DxP21SCdUUXLi0hSuGAs35WSHCx6xmk/s1600/IMG_9244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDljFdl_o-GGerxPoTokNMHHiGwkonpfIxb98CRIH9sLDW0mGdKcuIwLr3MjNCXwE5ODUKLdCYzD1yJwouk9X-SO4cGecpNXmsGnmORb3N2M7DxP21SCdUUXLi0hSuGAs35WSHCx6xmk/s640/IMG_9244.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've also learned that this wasn't a very common closure method, although a lot of historical costumers go for it! I think I've only found four extant dresses a functional button back closure. Different kinds of drawstring closures seem to be much more common in the 1810s and I can totally now see why - they allow for adjust-ability, whereas there's none in button closure.<br />
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One example of a drawstring closure of a 1810s dress can be found in <i>Costume in Detail: 1730-1930</i> by Nancy Bradfield (pages 103-104). (Also notice the corresponding v-neck design on both the front and the back of the gown.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0avPZ4EaTohDg3-u7-RfPV4brjlR33Dl4s4kLTwCxn6dBMXIJWXS-VOe0lcAex1Ot8QvrM92vKpnvwraas-ndb8KAwGM5POLE0MHBFtitWR8Rf70k1FkoC9jhmE9hjXr4nfsiN_0NNyM/s1600/IMG_9253-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0avPZ4EaTohDg3-u7-RfPV4brjlR33Dl4s4kLTwCxn6dBMXIJWXS-VOe0lcAex1Ot8QvrM92vKpnvwraas-ndb8KAwGM5POLE0MHBFtitWR8Rf70k1FkoC9jhmE9hjXr4nfsiN_0NNyM/s640/IMG_9253-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I think I've only found four extant dresses a functional button back closure. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPV5JxvgnIdURxE6MbEaDsjLRCR-hVWS8k1j3PBjYvxY54Yv9YD7hvcGa5oROAa6Mi0sh6rRt_wtoFtW79v8OgTclA329cl_I0uJEdIX78EotGJUXGjvVXUtb9ER5nvButGTfWDaKj07w/s1600/57410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="447" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPV5JxvgnIdURxE6MbEaDsjLRCR-hVWS8k1j3PBjYvxY54Yv9YD7hvcGa5oROAa6Mi0sh6rRt_wtoFtW79v8OgTclA329cl_I0uJEdIX78EotGJUXGjvVXUtb9ER5nvButGTfWDaKj07w/s1600/57410.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.nationaltrustimages.org.uk/image.aspx?id=57410&loggedIn=False" target="_blank">Detail of the back of a 1810 pink dress ©National Trust Images/Andreas von Einsiedel</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBm5KePZWZuABU4VGZt8Tv1nIaX5S2PsLCxNLYiAsaMVZgYqsx6uUx1Oik3sgKzJyBamatYnolKrmpxEJYyEUzomltUDWCVc74d3IX8-5xrY6N7ptHyFZ2xySskhxt8TTd43xqa5igtw/s1600/47.223.2_back_detail_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1298" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaBm5KePZWZuABU4VGZt8Tv1nIaX5S2PsLCxNLYiAsaMVZgYqsx6uUx1Oik3sgKzJyBamatYnolKrmpxEJYyEUzomltUDWCVc74d3IX8-5xrY6N7ptHyFZ2xySskhxt8TTd43xqa5igtw/s640/47.223.2_back_detail_CP4.jpg" width="515" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156562?=&imgNo=1&tabName=gallery-label" target="_blank">Evening dress, French, 1809, The Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMjbko_0LOyCn0n5o16h8x9EYA0QN-fR3jFoJwdokEaWYfoTZVrSz7pMRcHqV9la6JN9qT0ws01yov9hvkGkWVgg8tHx54-pPoy2cJLrCOwMyeLJo_wnSbWkUFaq1YNPWnFsWIqeyquNw/s1600/1979.346.40_d2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMjbko_0LOyCn0n5o16h8x9EYA0QN-fR3jFoJwdokEaWYfoTZVrSz7pMRcHqV9la6JN9qT0ws01yov9hvkGkWVgg8tHx54-pPoy2cJLrCOwMyeLJo_wnSbWkUFaq1YNPWnFsWIqeyquNw/s640/1979.346.40_d2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/90493?sortBy=Date&amp;when=A.D.+1800-1900&amp;what=Dresses&amp;ao=on&amp;ft=*&amp;pg=1&amp;rpp=20&amp;pos=38" target="_blank">Dress, American, ca. 1807, The Metropolitan Museum of Art</a></span></div>
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And the fourth example can be found <a href="https://whitakerauction.smugmug.com/The-Helen-Larson-Private-Collection/18th-Century-through-1820s/LOT-87-FRENCH-EMBROIDERED-MULL-DRESS-1805/i-BmSWJGS" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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When it comes to the construction of the bodice, I must admit that I totally improvised. Since regency isn't the main period I'm interested in <span style="font-size: x-small;">(no suprise there ;))</span>, I've decided I don't need to have as high standards for accuracy as I have with 18th century. Not that I have very high standards of accuracy with 18th century either (although it varies from project to project and apparently seems to get higher with time) but at least it's higher than with regency. With regency I simply cheat as much as I can, without having any too obvious machine sewing showing.<br />
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Hence, this bodice is mainly machine-stitched, and it is lined with cotton. Another option would have been to leave the bodice unlined and wear a bodiced petticoat, however, my petticoat doesn't have a bodice so I had to add a lining to the bodice. The underbust is fitted with darts in the lining and gathering in the muslin on the outside (as seen in the previous pictures).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDawGvjrA19gVN0Is4HVyb3PqeSp51lAP9BWVwVdrk_kJB9B2KD8aBeCEy6rjGVgjNrytOm5b8HsfZtfbnxOwp9amYCD8Yl9_gb8haboB-dGuA2SMpNOqEBK6p9kMjCZFYNyw9c3gEFZs/s1600/IMG_9270-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDawGvjrA19gVN0Is4HVyb3PqeSp51lAP9BWVwVdrk_kJB9B2KD8aBeCEy6rjGVgjNrytOm5b8HsfZtfbnxOwp9amYCD8Yl9_gb8haboB-dGuA2SMpNOqEBK6p9kMjCZFYNyw9c3gEFZs/s640/IMG_9270-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The dorset buttons were ready-made (no shame!) and I didn't even bother to do the five buttonholes by hand. Thankfully, my sewing machine makes really nice looking buttonholes so maybe I can get away with them because they don't look obnoxiously clunky? :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvq9UPD_UOxfL34MMCNCQGFjyrE39CRQOWmJpGrSyQCcXQqS-lYfRI4V6IoPer4F0eGyva3COElxS4n-jJV2vg9tGZcRBhitv2UsQsk8dAFn1hGLoUyckgRg8D9Hc9DZ37A3GERNR7huI/s1600/IMG_9287.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvq9UPD_UOxfL34MMCNCQGFjyrE39CRQOWmJpGrSyQCcXQqS-lYfRI4V6IoPer4F0eGyva3COElxS4n-jJV2vg9tGZcRBhitv2UsQsk8dAFn1hGLoUyckgRg8D9Hc9DZ37A3GERNR7huI/s640/IMG_9287.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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...unless you look really closely. ;)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLKzOT67woA3ICPF9BUoE_qA7EqwNT9-dmtXyO_gCJbe4g3hyVYIdFUAlLkuU-WbM-GXxZrys5sGGe9zlAHuN1cB6mP7HnVG1kLsM84BWFgnpJ7nN3zujHh2KP-eYfMoMfuO91zuqseo0/s1600/IMG_9302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLKzOT67woA3ICPF9BUoE_qA7EqwNT9-dmtXyO_gCJbe4g3hyVYIdFUAlLkuU-WbM-GXxZrys5sGGe9zlAHuN1cB6mP7HnVG1kLsM84BWFgnpJ7nN3zujHh2KP-eYfMoMfuO91zuqseo0/s640/IMG_9302.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu07sdxxM-CkOmyUr-1DWdBGL2qo0qP9gq15XkCCsMjAuK2heK-UbnfsLn5j6RFM5CbDTlpqLffeu71ZyryFPAXnz-8Qfhtu1VQwObl2P_LNu-uKqW5eWA8AdJ-xFQIbImjrO3lfmMQbA/s1600/IMG_9277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu07sdxxM-CkOmyUr-1DWdBGL2qo0qP9gq15XkCCsMjAuK2heK-UbnfsLn5j6RFM5CbDTlpqLffeu71ZyryFPAXnz-8Qfhtu1VQwObl2P_LNu-uKqW5eWA8AdJ-xFQIbImjrO3lfmMQbA/s640/IMG_9277.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I also constructed the bodice in the modern way by sewing up the lining separately and adding it to the outer fabric by sewing around the edges with right sides together. That way I was able to easily cover the raw edges of the lace as well, because they were sandwiched between the outer fabric and lining. When the bodice was finished, I joined the bodice and skirt and left the seam allowances unfinished on the inside of the dress and facing towards the hem.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3g7jbPzNFO939FbjkqKo0qcqzrEOojHS5z4RUtssy_-MmDEnsmcT4XeQ_Ed6Pk-wZnD76KG3YWW0X0WwigJ1_bYXOjr90FML94IE3f5GvjnEENmYFKL4VhEBVBth-ssX9aVmMhYQ673E/s1600/IMG_9290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3g7jbPzNFO939FbjkqKo0qcqzrEOojHS5z4RUtssy_-MmDEnsmcT4XeQ_Ed6Pk-wZnD76KG3YWW0X0WwigJ1_bYXOjr90FML94IE3f5GvjnEENmYFKL4VhEBVBth-ssX9aVmMhYQ673E/s640/IMG_9290.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This fabric was yet another lucky local fabric store find. It's embroidered cotton with a scalloped hem that just had to be made into a regency dress. It instantly reminded me of <a href="http://carl.kulturen.com/web/object/15191" target="_blank">this dress</a> in <a href="https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/13452334-kvinnligt-mode-under-tv-sekel" target="_blank"><i>Kvinnligt mode under två sekel </i>by Britta Hammar & Pernilla Rasmussen</a>. There is also a 1810s dress with a scalloped hem in <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Regency-Womens-Dress-Techniques-1800-1830/dp/0896762971" target="_blank"><i>Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830</i> by Cassidy Percoco</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUhg-BCTmGsdQdgsIHgSPM2RYoseTBNpRc8GkREm6yJiCc0nMqPNaWRYNnTkBkUV9jhenorZKYeCMgMxB5nYaLasvkJwvxN74UCuN-xylFXxW6gsv1ILpsYvYYo5kqhjh1lDaYfopcEQ/s1600/IMG_9264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUhg-BCTmGsdQdgsIHgSPM2RYoseTBNpRc8GkREm6yJiCc0nMqPNaWRYNnTkBkUV9jhenorZKYeCMgMxB5nYaLasvkJwvxN74UCuN-xylFXxW6gsv1ILpsYvYYo5kqhjh1lDaYfopcEQ/s640/IMG_9264.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In fact, the pattern for my skirt is based on the morning gown (dated 1809-1819) in <i>Regency Women's Dress</i> (see pages 62-65).<br />
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<img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0crualW35C3-ZcScZLGEGLCjxMqhVnyorjpuL5ewS73MXfBN59aQ74tRpXlk-R6glU-v68OteBrssqW83I9UKOxh7dRdK5cAuDtQ5MCvjnqLJ1l7omMf1nm8i-u_hkr_YzKNQgphWMSM/s640/IMG_9216-2.jpg" width="426" /></div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Scalloped hems were also fashionable in the early 1810s. The extant v-neck gowns that I found also often (thought maybe not always) had a corresponding back like this (more examples of this can be found <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/projects-early-1810s-gown/?eq=1810s&etslf=8762" target="_blank">on my Pinterest research image board</a>).</blockquote>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhORLS8eS7_6537j254pl5SCJ0dog1aGYuMRDAYKrPfbLMNfk92KSmOT6WreTIKrBKKg5b-avRwIB8XHSt9itdAJZMdbkJJBAcVFhljcOqNdpoWjCHyUeWlx_7Ltqwo9_uYs3pUxP17fXo/s1600/4882693443_ed7dc6ac31_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhORLS8eS7_6537j254pl5SCJ0dog1aGYuMRDAYKrPfbLMNfk92KSmOT6WreTIKrBKKg5b-avRwIB8XHSt9itdAJZMdbkJJBAcVFhljcOqNdpoWjCHyUeWlx_7Ltqwo9_uYs3pUxP17fXo/s1600/4882693443_ed7dc6ac31_o.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="362" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4882693443/in/set-72157624704755764">Costume Parisien fashion plate, 1813. </a></div>
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And another example of a scalloped hem can be seen in this painting below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtClLl2vYRaXKeH8lsC_wOV0BoSEOEg01q93OYNKxsrVuUNCw5Y806vWSRcFwWj-L1XKwMSoKosvfFFBpZx2gy41gP2ISEMp4EW0WQcRL3uyES3-LYsagkHirfIlj3u8ftTvKiHkPbiZ0/s1600/ef1ce19c-9f87-4158-bede-3136d782f1d3_watermark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtClLl2vYRaXKeH8lsC_wOV0BoSEOEg01q93OYNKxsrVuUNCw5Y806vWSRcFwWj-L1XKwMSoKosvfFFBpZx2gy41gP2ISEMp4EW0WQcRL3uyES3-LYsagkHirfIlj3u8ftTvKiHkPbiZ0/s640/ef1ce19c-9f87-4158-bede-3136d782f1d3_watermark.jpg" width="443" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Misses de Balleroy, 1805-1815, by Henri François Riesener</span></div>
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A close-up of the embroidery on the hem:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg07x-gkBooRciNjR6XQsUbEz9pGlfEtJYWjPQWsJW-v-sOyu71f7O4JwSMMaCamOdXxJ9H1UHWhTZNY0D6oQE063sgXW7B107vsOqCo-ObxAv1Lmb5iAz4F-aVeyrUIWrNa1iueHzPaF0/s1600/IMG_9157-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg07x-gkBooRciNjR6XQsUbEz9pGlfEtJYWjPQWsJW-v-sOyu71f7O4JwSMMaCamOdXxJ9H1UHWhTZNY0D6oQE063sgXW7B107vsOqCo-ObxAv1Lmb5iAz4F-aVeyrUIWrNa1iueHzPaF0/s640/IMG_9157-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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When I was scheduling this dress and thinking how fast it would be to put together, I didn't realize that I would have to finish all the long seams on the skirt by hand because the fabric is so sheer that unfinished seam allowances would show and look really ugly. So the dress took me a bit longer than expected but I was really happy with how neat and tidy the skirt looked in the end! </div>
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Here you can see the side panel of the skirt and the flat-felled seams.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7T2kHCYZ5YLu-F7kO8mUMy9D7eTDF0i7IGN_T0arU6wUZpTPEPKRFdQFYqvsg2R7TamGh_vpC1hp_18kgejZsph8KIL6PGibr2BXBWbiUwHJ3-ib8jy4jqLLKZj03sSbYVlrK-PSINho/s1600/IMG_9129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7T2kHCYZ5YLu-F7kO8mUMy9D7eTDF0i7IGN_T0arU6wUZpTPEPKRFdQFYqvsg2R7TamGh_vpC1hp_18kgejZsph8KIL6PGibr2BXBWbiUwHJ3-ib8jy4jqLLKZj03sSbYVlrK-PSINho/s640/IMG_9129.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The result was so worth the effort and I quite fell in love with flat-felled seam finishing. Now I'm tempted to use this technique on all my skirts! <span style="font-size: x-small;">(I'm <i>not actually</i> going to do it where it isn't necessary because it's a waste of time though!) ;)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQnf3tlUnGJybyV07TYHQGDi1tkF7mRG_9kVU7WlLR5F6RQc3R4A4In8t3Od6g0MGNfS0peEhwlmRq0ny2eKceWHhMmllYvuf1vUsJ-3_Zl0yeY5Az45nn9L2mtPXYAS_-HjzglExZ0Q0/s1600/IMG_9145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQnf3tlUnGJybyV07TYHQGDi1tkF7mRG_9kVU7WlLR5F6RQc3R4A4In8t3Od6g0MGNfS0peEhwlmRq0ny2eKceWHhMmllYvuf1vUsJ-3_Zl0yeY5Az45nn9L2mtPXYAS_-HjzglExZ0Q0/s640/IMG_9145.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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And this is how the seams look from the right side of the dress:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgmx43ST0lickirG5boAu2Wkgpw-v_RHa5L4uMLJT1CHWujw93FysfSExtv_-jnLJSpSzOHpvsu8seMVieZ76lbfyLfShwKYwVWW7G5y0Ehch738HO4Z5nUinzls2FsxHh1qGjFFsXAik/s1600/IMG_9147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgmx43ST0lickirG5boAu2Wkgpw-v_RHa5L4uMLJT1CHWujw93FysfSExtv_-jnLJSpSzOHpvsu8seMVieZ76lbfyLfShwKYwVWW7G5y0Ehch738HO4Z5nUinzls2FsxHh1qGjFFsXAik/s640/IMG_9147.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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As this post was getting really long, I decided to separate the photos of the dress being worn into another post which I will try to publish soon. In the meanwhile I am going to end this post with a couple of teasers and links. :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUStx-uf8nKFKRJLVjzIrgA5iEYvIQAPZzbi0uDNaQYJwkUFJOOPEcKvMN1O3ivqLwx-ysBbplmCSQ1oW6v8OUd39So_xURtxuem4n-N_jUMSigEikBvUbA7jOfScVinNJUcbHwVNQkv8/s1600/IMG_4269.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUStx-uf8nKFKRJLVjzIrgA5iEYvIQAPZzbi0uDNaQYJwkUFJOOPEcKvMN1O3ivqLwx-ysBbplmCSQ1oW6v8OUd39So_xURtxuem4n-N_jUMSigEikBvUbA7jOfScVinNJUcbHwVNQkv8/s640/IMG_4269.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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My Pinterest boards related to this project:</div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/projects-19th-century-regency-era/early-1810s-dress/" target="_blank">Projects: Early 1810s gown</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/19th-century-1810s-womens-fashion/v-necks/" target="_blank">19th century: 1810s Women's Fashion: v-necks</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/19th-century-portraits-of-women/1810s/" target="_blank">19th century: Portraits of women: 1810s</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/fashion-plates-1810s/?eq=1810s&etslf=4528" target="_blank">Fashion plates: 1810s</a></div>
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I should also mention that I found <a href="http://historicalclothinganduniforms.blogspot.fi/2012/02/my-first-dress-of-2012-1812.html" target="_blank">Natalie Garbett's post about her c.1812 dress</a> very useful when starting this project. :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB4YJ-XRL9HWcKd_JL0olEXt5z4gOYPEzgygeRbFzXYZlUqh0CjGpBqpmQiX24S-qAwVdkbelsYbEsKzkNyVGZagKTk6_OfVlJ1iBVeRDsArvFdjYeZ3sbBsd3prNBHKBJwGiOp90pOiw/s1600/IMG_7818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB4YJ-XRL9HWcKd_JL0olEXt5z4gOYPEzgygeRbFzXYZlUqh0CjGpBqpmQiX24S-qAwVdkbelsYbEsKzkNyVGZagKTk6_OfVlJ1iBVeRDsArvFdjYeZ3sbBsd3prNBHKBJwGiOp90pOiw/s640/IMG_7818.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Since this gown was made two years ago at a time when I was just starting researching and sewing regency era garments, I have have learned so much more after that. I'm now thinking about getting back to this gown to make some alterations to the bodice to make it more authentic. This was my second regency gown and it was definitely still very much a learning project. </div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-33338073136344873152017-07-09T15:19:00.000+03:002017-07-09T15:20:12.460+03:00Christmas ball 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span id="docs-internal-guid-5e9d86c8-273b-3cb5-df83-9fa89519c968" style="vertical-align: baseline;">Since it's mid summer now, I feel like this is the weirdest time of year to make a post about last year's Christmas ball, but I thought I might do it anyway. Originally I actually didn't plan to make a post about the ball at all (hence the weird timing of the post). I just feel like the posts about this annual event would be too repetitive as the event is very similar each year (although there are some variations in </span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">the</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;"> program). However, my photos do not vary t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶m̶u̶c̶h at all - they're just photos of people sitting at tables and chatting/dining. But it's been a long while since my last post about this event (four years?) and</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;"> there is one thing that varies a great deal each year and that is what people </span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">are wearing</span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;"> to the ball. So in the end, with this being a blog about costumes, I changed my mind about posting about this event. And I do think there are quite a few nice photos that I would love to have documented on this blog, so here we go!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">The location of the ball was different to </span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">that of </span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">previous years. </span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">I personally prefer this location, although it may be argued that it is too small a location for dancing. It isn't as dark as in the usual location at <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2013/12/ehrensvard-museum-and-christmas-ball-in.html" target="_blank">Tenalj Von Fersen</a></span><span style="vertical-align: baseline;">.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">There was a smaller group of us earlier during the day and more people would join us later in the evening for the ball. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEXVfB2T_9vINiOGPfILASveXplZq6FIYebavWZJPF9VXREd4NFMLyHQ1vVMfTXaHH4W5q9hidJ0MsgtWrK5SPbIpRspq0Pqd1IQtCXFj283w0fV3nAs-yMxG2375AR8LBFSeLrR0w_A/s1600/IMG_4832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEXVfB2T_9vINiOGPfILASveXplZq6FIYebavWZJPF9VXREd4NFMLyHQ1vVMfTXaHH4W5q9hidJ0MsgtWrK5SPbIpRspq0Pqd1IQtCXFj283w0fV3nAs-yMxG2375AR8LBFSeLrR0w_A/s640/IMG_4832.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As usual, Johanna brought her lovely jewellery shop with her. She was wearing an early 18th century robe battante (a style that you, regrettably, don't often get to see being recreated) in beautiful yellow silk taffeta! </div>
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The photos don't do justice to the jewelry sparkling in the candlelight. </div>
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On the left in the photo below you can see Heidi, who was attending first time, and Mia looking beautiful in the candlelight! These two gowns are sewn by Mia, and made with <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/90759535/fig-leaf-patterns-101-gown-c1771-1785" target="_blank">the Fig Leaf Patterns 101</a> that I also used to make <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/search/label/Williamsburg%20print%20gown" target="_blank">my Williamsburg print gown</a> last year. Oh, and they are both made from Ikea fabrics! Heidi's gown is made from <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90314360/" target="_blank">Ljusöga duvet cover</a> and Mia's gown is made with a fabric (that is no longer available) that she accidentally found on a site similar to Ebay. We actually didn't know the fabric was from Ikea until I spotted the same fabric on <a href="http://www.kwaltersatthesignofthegrayhorse.com/2016/07/the-4th-of-july-and-my-gown-made-from.html" target="_blank">K. Walter's at the Sign of the Grey Horse blog</a>! You can see more photos of these lovely outfits if you scroll down <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ohgloomysunday/" target="_blank">on Mia's Instagram</a>.</div>
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And I wore a new dress that I have yet to blog about. I got my jewelry from Johanna and Mia did my hair which was quite big this time!<br />
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Another lovely photo of Heidi. </div>
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It is so lovely to see some Swedish guests attending every year!</div>
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This is my favorite photo of our squad from the evening!</div>
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There's also a full-length shot of us, taken with Mia's phone so it's grainy. (And I'm amused by how much shorter I am than the other two ladies.)
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It is so lovely to see some Swedish guests attending every year! Below is Elisa (of <a href="http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.fi/" target="_blank">Isis' Wardrobe</a>), wearing a beautiful late 17th century-early 18th century mantua, <a href="http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.fi/2016/07/hsf-2016-travels-wool-gown-1680-1712.html" target="_blank">of which she has blogged about</a>. </div>
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Here's Anna, wearing a gorgeous mantua, and Maija <a href="http://www.couturemayah.info/eng%20Brunswick.html" target="_blank">in her lovely pet en l'air that can be turned into a Brunswick</a> (the photos on her website will have you drooling!)!</div>
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Pia singing.</div>
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It was wonderful to meet Fredrick Ell (on the left) who was also attending the ball for the first time and chat about sewing with him! <a href="https://www.facebook.com/frelld/" target="_blank">He has a Facebook page about his work, if you're interested!</a></div>
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I feel like this is an appropriate photo to end this blog post with, as Patrik's (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/patrikblommanblom/" target="_blank">whom you can find on Instagram as well</a>) expression sums up how exciting it was to attend the ball! ;)</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">(Isn't it f</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">unny how this event is a ball but there are no photos of people dancing... </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">😅</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">)</span></div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-72687049110717026382017-04-26T17:27:00.000+03:002017-04-26T18:52:00.650+03:00My second robe en chemise<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
This robe en chemise was a very quick and dirty project. The idea was to make something fast while trying out a pattern that I had been altering to fit. I was never entirely happy with <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2015/08/a-simple-robe-en-chemise.html">my first robe en chemise</a> that I had made for myself, so I wanted to make another. Design-wise it's really similar to the first gown, but there are some subtle, yet significant differences. Most notably, it's worn with a pair of 1780s stays, unlike my first robe en chemise that was made to go over my white 1760s stays, <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2015/08/a-simple-robe-en-chemise.html">as mentioned in the original post about it.</a> </div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">I've had the chance to wear this gown to an event twice already. The first time was to an informal 18th century gathering in February and I actually felt a bit overdressed for the simple occasion.</span></div>
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I wore the gown with my old bum pad that is smaller than the one I usually wear (for 1780s gowns). This bum pad doesn't extend to the sides so it's more appropriate for the early 1790s look that I was going for.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4ApAb9FGsWk7F60EsDm0u14Xyq5Dn0nFLOK-3D85pjWWMzN2QPzZ3oq27wm7WchZtL9BcgHkR_XBztw7mgU5sHtkqYdyXhjN1q9UfriWiyZR1BSJE86NQ0dcm-lg3t2774zOJEq3_5A/s1600/IMG_5207x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4ApAb9FGsWk7F60EsDm0u14Xyq5Dn0nFLOK-3D85pjWWMzN2QPzZ3oq27wm7WchZtL9BcgHkR_XBztw7mgU5sHtkqYdyXhjN1q9UfriWiyZR1BSJE86NQ0dcm-lg3t2774zOJEq3_5A/s640/IMG_5207x.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I'm not entirely happy about the amount of fabric in the back of the skirt because there's not much - with the bum pad it looks kind of sad. I had a very limited amount fabric so I ended up using every bit I had without having to piece the bodice or the sleeves. With so much gathering in the front, not as much material was left for the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahAssTDAe9YIhVqFcBNl2tp-biZOIfeqpgiRlmUZlnguhJgdc1gJuRPi7Onxzo-PaeHe9wb3sHKnf92JbNYlm2PMAfv8Rv8LDJafX_O_lfyAMSWGaO7IHXb-Za7eyqLfGRv12-vgLtlI/s1600/IMG_5246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahAssTDAe9YIhVqFcBNl2tp-biZOIfeqpgiRlmUZlnguhJgdc1gJuRPi7Onxzo-PaeHe9wb3sHKnf92JbNYlm2PMAfv8Rv8LDJafX_O_lfyAMSWGaO7IHXb-Za7eyqLfGRv12-vgLtlI/s640/IMG_5246.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Mia did my hair, as usual.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8sryV-JnFQqJvdbqO_YouboSC56jt8JwqhNbPM7u5t68Fmc5QjDdfXB6VMJql6agB6SdRDp-CtVacpUav8TbI_eygdaSUAwwQxYu1hHHSa4kgfk0zmRQx-89bQ-9GxlmaJCoq0G6GEg/s1600/IMGP7426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8sryV-JnFQqJvdbqO_YouboSC56jt8JwqhNbPM7u5t68Fmc5QjDdfXB6VMJql6agB6SdRDp-CtVacpUav8TbI_eygdaSUAwwQxYu1hHHSa4kgfk0zmRQx-89bQ-9GxlmaJCoq0G6GEg/s640/IMGP7426.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Jarno Manninen</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs3NgOqbQxTOTlD5cTuctX0m1ny-CrFh81r3nEQaE_b4BHZSDtS75zB0wgKdwcyt1c0rVgkyTCaT5Jj-9PuCDh6s1i_BF6V3UEsjaWZziS4DAVsDe8WmQqu1nym-5S3NwVsqbA2EeTtzw/s1600/IMGP7425x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs3NgOqbQxTOTlD5cTuctX0m1ny-CrFh81r3nEQaE_b4BHZSDtS75zB0wgKdwcyt1c0rVgkyTCaT5Jj-9PuCDh6s1i_BF6V3UEsjaWZziS4DAVsDe8WmQqu1nym-5S3NwVsqbA2EeTtzw/s640/IMGP7425x.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Jarno Manninen</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYbeH2GnrekF4ivEYA5N-jm44J396-fqPt_TVod7JbWPCdEeDJFkTPgxPIPZFgd9GPdZrW_CEXBnXRIbmbHlsc4VjaIyUfEy0d67HoDZObxboRH4HEejCixT_XYnHcYRBN122G_Dcu9I/s1600/attribue_a_marie-elisabeth_lemoine_dite_madame_gabiou_autoportrait_de_d5366485g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNYbeH2GnrekF4ivEYA5N-jm44J396-fqPt_TVod7JbWPCdEeDJFkTPgxPIPZFgd9GPdZrW_CEXBnXRIbmbHlsc4VjaIyUfEy0d67HoDZObxboRH4HEejCixT_XYnHcYRBN122G_Dcu9I/s640/attribue_a_marie-elisabeth_lemoine_dite_madame_gabiou_autoportrait_de_d5366485g.jpg" width="524" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/lot_details.aspx?intObjectID=5366485">Self-portrait attributed to Marie-Elisabeth Lemoine. Via Christie's</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitZu6zG2njYzzbanEpQfU_rTLfh30Xb2hEiroYC75DfXpRXkdI9sO8pDNpH0KPyEMUtXfh91eO0G5JWpID3DYY3kHdNEtOJsS5wKhkhTXEUbhU-tYUzRHnQX5ZTCqcwryCIY6xy8WO42E/s1600/IMG_5191-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitZu6zG2njYzzbanEpQfU_rTLfh30Xb2hEiroYC75DfXpRXkdI9sO8pDNpH0KPyEMUtXfh91eO0G5JWpID3DYY3kHdNEtOJsS5wKhkhTXEUbhU-tYUzRHnQX5ZTCqcwryCIY6xy8WO42E/s640/IMG_5191-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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And then I also wore the gown to L'Amusette's annual spring ball last Saturday. The theme was French Revolution so the gown was accessorized accordingly.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6vwZBNem-Waxb_BmZL92p-oKQfcM9oQ95-t25J2L-36zp8ywfLI1d3bW1qa30X_tzRwQE6QUHo4odo1ESJXch6g_XmIaypEheuZk6s1gn4DsjVsr4bzUCY8y9sg1bgOcVJa8gRFIMjKk/s1600/IMG_5367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6vwZBNem-Waxb_BmZL92p-oKQfcM9oQ95-t25J2L-36zp8ywfLI1d3bW1qa30X_tzRwQE6QUHo4odo1ESJXch6g_XmIaypEheuZk6s1gn4DsjVsr4bzUCY8y9sg1bgOcVJa8gRFIMjKk/s640/IMG_5367.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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There was no bum pad.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPTX9ijOHQPxXCwyDlExZaOyeTxP2FW2aWH3fiBaPQZ25mTwMvYvxQJp-0EfDakSBYzjkcfpVxb2q5uDWykZIldsTJ3nxKnd9GpMggn1hGuftl1AO6aE9oqFQlXsXNgob_VJLwXl3lcqs/s1600/IMG_5432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPTX9ijOHQPxXCwyDlExZaOyeTxP2FW2aWH3fiBaPQZ25mTwMvYvxQJp-0EfDakSBYzjkcfpVxb2q5uDWykZIldsTJ3nxKnd9GpMggn1hGuftl1AO6aE9oqFQlXsXNgob_VJLwXl3lcqs/s640/IMG_5432.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This time my hairdo was inspired by the simpler styles appearing in the 1790s as fashion transitions towards neoclassical style.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8urFU3hRWZ4_sJdkEAdNbP77v8bQFE87l1vhiXZF0Bsi2FXt1YYTzt8M7wv20FCe6Adup4E_-KWaXCAkTmPZUpt3nDrtm4t0PWt71PtEUT9rW-7TsSU15njU_dtCKygdCTd-gj_mzikA/s1600/IMG_5463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8urFU3hRWZ4_sJdkEAdNbP77v8bQFE87l1vhiXZF0Bsi2FXt1YYTzt8M7wv20FCe6Adup4E_-KWaXCAkTmPZUpt3nDrtm4t0PWt71PtEUT9rW-7TsSU15njU_dtCKygdCTd-gj_mzikA/s640/IMG_5463.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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Under the gathered front, the gown has fitted front panels that are tied with five pairs of tapes at center front. <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/pin/237494580328967792/">This closure method is based on an extant dress in Musee de la Toile de Joyu</a>. If you take a look at the photo in the link, you can see that the panels are unevenly stretched where the ties have pulled the fabric. To avoid this, I added bones to the edges of the panels.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmp94fEkFLKbplSh5_dENyqdKNUqVa-0M1kkmeHLfN70A7lVglcqg91CBzre97Qes7JQMfKYuqaXZNTNivhHNKlbMBtORfqXBVC6i_l-2fRXumJ2NT-tNX8OtVbQAbLVwk4FGSPH4Zl4/s1600/IMG_5537-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmp94fEkFLKbplSh5_dENyqdKNUqVa-0M1kkmeHLfN70A7lVglcqg91CBzre97Qes7JQMfKYuqaXZNTNivhHNKlbMBtORfqXBVC6i_l-2fRXumJ2NT-tNX8OtVbQAbLVwk4FGSPH4Zl4/s640/IMG_5537-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Twill tapes were sewn to the underside of the center front panels to create casings for drawstrings.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8FxJR9pbTe3DCBvs30IwwxXwfw6XfiCO4iCu1VRTCuJxNZPdWMuBw7RL03U99Le4viEjYHTFy5ecraOxVNh3viMZ_KvTC3UyYTPlqQz9cFxNpp2JLRTapQdMG9p5Nb3kpjLlJehSGrA/s1600/IMG_5526-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn8FxJR9pbTe3DCBvs30IwwxXwfw6XfiCO4iCu1VRTCuJxNZPdWMuBw7RL03U99Le4viEjYHTFy5ecraOxVNh3viMZ_KvTC3UyYTPlqQz9cFxNpp2JLRTapQdMG9p5Nb3kpjLlJehSGrA/s640/IMG_5526-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The drawstrings are tied and hidden under the center front. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Dl1bdUTac78vCUxOLFY8SME-h9-A-Fbya-jeFLLK7dLCfFlZIXxJ0hIW3I5g49OiF6Sa5MkkLySFp819OIlI4E50g8Y1NJ1AQITWhkld2gPhXCGUg2NkWXG0GTSN5M0s39i6b9VbRbE/s1600/IMG_5556-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Dl1bdUTac78vCUxOLFY8SME-h9-A-Fbya-jeFLLK7dLCfFlZIXxJ0hIW3I5g49OiF6Sa5MkkLySFp819OIlI4E50g8Y1NJ1AQITWhkld2gPhXCGUg2NkWXG0GTSN5M0s39i6b9VbRbE/s400/IMG_5556-2.jpg" width="265" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiMv9eGxOT7Eess6dRVveMY6sWZ3owTfZm0o6SpP2FmJMaBnpTqcC3x9N98P4xSYoQV5dkGvTFPpDKNIfEKcUnyZm9PY2OERQGPOqJLnQQeN3k4AyHSQx4uxswMTxbrWHIcGIXBkInKo/s1600/IMG_5569-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiMv9eGxOT7Eess6dRVveMY6sWZ3owTfZm0o6SpP2FmJMaBnpTqcC3x9N98P4xSYoQV5dkGvTFPpDKNIfEKcUnyZm9PY2OERQGPOqJLnQQeN3k4AyHSQx4uxswMTxbrWHIcGIXBkInKo/s400/IMG_5569-3.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
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The back is very simple. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzmCAYiOXy7e1T2hNRHlw06gZYEOuUVHNcw1bcYDJl8MtUYYE-cO2b__qXLGemTbkggHDDRZKCE6uF2fCcSJzYM900itlT2A3gNmER6xGNP9u1IJ4IY-f9kWL6GmJzjFmeT8yWiqj2lI/s1600/IMG_5422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOzmCAYiOXy7e1T2hNRHlw06gZYEOuUVHNcw1bcYDJl8MtUYYE-cO2b__qXLGemTbkggHDDRZKCE6uF2fCcSJzYM900itlT2A3gNmER6xGNP9u1IJ4IY-f9kWL6GmJzjFmeT8yWiqj2lI/s640/IMG_5422.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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None of the photos of the finished gown so it very well so here's an in-progress photo before attaching the skirt and sleeves:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSacRyNZ6sIjFW35llcJWQKPifgpT4YHerobQ5La7zPfSAKa9752Lcq5IQ0mY9QQXSiivHkvqU6jm9RTZBrFp-Q2q_n-7oRncPvbVUdlSE_g6AXjo0Xti9TcdnYQNZszQLazk7fVXfBW8/s1600/IMG_20170221_143448837-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSacRyNZ6sIjFW35llcJWQKPifgpT4YHerobQ5La7zPfSAKa9752Lcq5IQ0mY9QQXSiivHkvqU6jm9RTZBrFp-Q2q_n-7oRncPvbVUdlSE_g6AXjo0Xti9TcdnYQNZszQLazk7fVXfBW8/s640/IMG_20170221_143448837-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ_BAE1CFGvCxY9Sg_uNh96gesjPLkXlcPKtJkoSU12lxP8lhv2pwwke7Mug1TAmv2BQN8gbpon7Cup7mYUqyL4kQTivs3aZWRbVl3HUzs47ZwYpJc3NFHvMJozGhewOzt2uFKzkVn8pk/s1600/IMG_5452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ_BAE1CFGvCxY9Sg_uNh96gesjPLkXlcPKtJkoSU12lxP8lhv2pwwke7Mug1TAmv2BQN8gbpon7Cup7mYUqyL4kQTivs3aZWRbVl3HUzs47ZwYpJc3NFHvMJozGhewOzt2uFKzkVn8pk/s640/IMG_5452.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Oh, and there's a bonus - a little video clip that Mia took on her phone at the Spring ball! :) </div>
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My Pinterest research boards related to this project:</div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-en-chemise-1790s/">Robe en Chemise: 1780s </a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-en-chemise-1790s/">Robe en Chemise: 1790s</a> </div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-en-chemise-extants/">Chemise gown extants</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/1780s-hair-caps-and-hats/">1780s hair, caps and hats</a></div>
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<a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/1790s-hair-caps-and-hats/">1790s hair, caps and hats</a></div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-71945300175488216602017-03-02T12:15:00.002+02:002017-03-02T13:28:05.599+02:00Regency day dress (Laughing Moon Mercantile #126)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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By arranging <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/02/gustavian-day-in-vaasa.html">the Gustavian day event in Vaasa</a> two years ago, <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/">Noora</a> gave me a reason to make my first regency gown - so I finally did. She has been talking about how easy regency gowns are to make for probably as long as we've known so I guess it shouldn't have come as a surprise that making a simple gown like this was quick and easy but I still couldn't help being positively surprised. Had I not worked on it a bit by bit in the evenings and mornings so that it took me a month or so to finish, I think the dress could have been done in much less time. It really had been too long since I could properly enjoy sewing so this gown really was a much needed relaxing project for me at the time, too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44RikPIHsOyEK98r0nQmbGv_U-E4bMFXdRHOCL02GY6NU2BA3YEBhbQ_k_yKD1PcUkpoPHIUSi0XBBLG-k6gCRfJHGsAejKpSjkaGB0guUMYhQI-tyPxPT__73uwfGDWcJkQQXtqpu1g/s1600/IMG_2973.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44RikPIHsOyEK98r0nQmbGv_U-E4bMFXdRHOCL02GY6NU2BA3YEBhbQ_k_yKD1PcUkpoPHIUSi0XBBLG-k6gCRfJHGsAejKpSjkaGB0guUMYhQI-tyPxPT__73uwfGDWcJkQQXtqpu1g/s640/IMG_2973.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The fabric was a remnant find from a local fabric store. I had seen it earlier there and hadn't bought it because at the time I didn't think I was going to be doing regency so soon but the second time I looked at it I couldn't stop thinking about getting it so I only had to ask for <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/">Noora</a>'s opinion before I could come to a decision. Looking back now I don't know why I hesitated so much because I think it's quite perfect for the era as well as a color that I love. ;)<br />
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Here you can see a close-up of the fabric, in a different lighting (indoors):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxfm2RqsSeatj2JfVKE2sm3k59tW0aNFcJ9EbyLr-a47po99OcpPyjmBvwdV20CmJ995g9d4_AV_BqPa1_6uEpuTmXUD9vB6KE2CFF-8VruDNaaySg3Xj6d67KdrUI-Eg43Rl4953SZA/s1600/IMG_5008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxfm2RqsSeatj2JfVKE2sm3k59tW0aNFcJ9EbyLr-a47po99OcpPyjmBvwdV20CmJ995g9d4_AV_BqPa1_6uEpuTmXUD9vB6KE2CFF-8VruDNaaySg3Xj6d67KdrUI-Eg43Rl4953SZA/s640/IMG_5008.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And later I even discovered <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/237494580324091451/">an original dress that was made out of a fabric</a> that reminded me of my find. Yay!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsdVzjgbjxxa-iOi0-MaQjNTD3i4vmELbTdke5UwlaGvs_EWbXUgeZchw02Nx_-ODiqeNc-eOTefV0KQBQxvPEHzZQ0UDk1_OLlkSYEKy4jM6nkyjzqllIbHC3L7MxDfToOXL4fwuUkE/s1600/IMG_2965-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsdVzjgbjxxa-iOi0-MaQjNTD3i4vmELbTdke5UwlaGvs_EWbXUgeZchw02Nx_-ODiqeNc-eOTefV0KQBQxvPEHzZQ0UDk1_OLlkSYEKy4jM6nkyjzqllIbHC3L7MxDfToOXL4fwuUkE/s640/IMG_2965-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Knowing the fabric would make a lovely day dress, I simply started looking around for <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/19th-century-regency-day-dresses/">regency day dresses on the net</a> and eventually found the following fashion plate (from 1801-1802), which became my main source for inspiration. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1Uch6vCLE_ICW0olJIYoA8OXTCR-LpqxkH0PPR-iiw-r8U7IpfE9GkUL9hQFl_IIqnFoxcLTDlFrVCWyFIIM9QPFbie_EQHpgdi69OfkRUv2GxP5ehRNcy4Hbon-UMTGCuf53XktNjI/s1600/4837421657_6701bfb59d_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1Uch6vCLE_ICW0olJIYoA8OXTCR-LpqxkH0PPR-iiw-r8U7IpfE9GkUL9hQFl_IIqnFoxcLTDlFrVCWyFIIM9QPFbie_EQHpgdi69OfkRUv2GxP5ehRNcy4Hbon-UMTGCuf53XktNjI/s640/4837421657_6701bfb59d_o.jpg" width="394" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/bibliotheque/">Bibliothèque des Arts Décoratifs</a> via <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/4837421657/in/set-72157624477496471/">SceneInThePast</a>.</td></tr>
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I really like how the back side of this dress looks pretty similar to the fashion plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaqMWh7IrJwCIMw7Xm8Igk-LhWpU32PccN0BtVqR4T8-j5FRqSCs4Vggu18EyXOPPd2S3pQmwV23KQKFLeclnMPvAPAFGiS-fYKIiSm6pClrbbQBDKvqMhZW5EP_To63q6EaGgIsBxc-U/s1600/IMG_2959+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaqMWh7IrJwCIMw7Xm8Igk-LhWpU32PccN0BtVqR4T8-j5FRqSCs4Vggu18EyXOPPd2S3pQmwV23KQKFLeclnMPvAPAFGiS-fYKIiSm6pClrbbQBDKvqMhZW5EP_To63q6EaGgIsBxc-U/s640/IMG_2959+-+2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This was also my very first time using a commercial pattern for a historical dress. I had read a few positive reviews about <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/LaughingMoonMer/laughing-moon-mercantile-126/">the Laughing Moon Mercantile's stomacher front dress</a> so I decided to give it a go. And yes, it was as great as everyone is saying. I only did some alterations to the pattern before making a mock-up and it fit perfectly. Construction-wise I deviated a bit from the modern instructions - although still making the internal seams on the machine - and added a third pair of ties to the middle of the closure in the lining (the pattern suggests only two pairs but I was afraid that it would cause awkward pulling).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyG_Tro7hqLYEx6Z_yUmCijfAKkffD94IljqROtbKRvF4uIetiMXf2undKhyphenhyphenM5xxBNoR_QXukKNXo5R24pwJlTdafmXEEzCULPjYkgETOLvaiuNwIcP0F1IFtjuGmpzAyMKSwq3ZFQZw/s1600/IMG_2978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyG_Tro7hqLYEx6Z_yUmCijfAKkffD94IljqROtbKRvF4uIetiMXf2undKhyphenhyphenM5xxBNoR_QXukKNXo5R24pwJlTdafmXEEzCULPjYkgETOLvaiuNwIcP0F1IFtjuGmpzAyMKSwq3ZFQZw/s640/IMG_2978.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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To see other gowns made from this pattern check out <a href="http://wearinghistoryblog.com/2016/02/finished-project-a-fairy-tale-wool-regency-dress-and-a-pattern-review/">Lauren's</a>, <a href="http://beyondthehourglass.com/2015/06/08/teal-regency-dotted-swiss/">Erin's</a> or <a href="http://dixiediy.com/2015/07/full-regency-era-costume.html">Dixie's</a> lovely versions.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLAc_1Zv0a0ev4BC9Ix4kH9ErT2AFG9T7W4HSY6cN8um5f1bivySW3JCLWkQsAFU4_b6zdRcy2YsBH6f_iON2EUhTUdE1SjX8CduYU9lyEu9GrPS11PyJCtrX9OullvHnUCbD4P3ALO4/s1600/11705263_10154065260767080_4252568123642060415_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLAc_1Zv0a0ev4BC9Ix4kH9ErT2AFG9T7W4HSY6cN8um5f1bivySW3JCLWkQsAFU4_b6zdRcy2YsBH6f_iON2EUhTUdE1SjX8CduYU9lyEu9GrPS11PyJCtrX9OullvHnUCbD4P3ALO4/s640/11705263_10154065260767080_4252568123642060415_3.jpg" width="432" /></a></div>
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I would also like to thank to <a href="http://ohgloomysunday.blogspot.fi/">Mia</a> for creating my lovely hair-do (as seen from the back above) and <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/">Noora</a> for letting me borrow her chemisette, as I don't have one yet. :)</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-15908823131602842802017-01-02T11:57:00.000+02:002017-01-02T12:04:43.469+02:00Second Gustavian Day in Vaasa, August 2016.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Last August, a week after <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/11/picnic-in-suomenlinna-fortress.html">the picnic in Suomenlinna</a>, it was time to travel to Vaasa, to have another picnic. We did not have the same luck with weather <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/02/gustavian-day-in-vaasa.html">as the previous year</a>, and so it began raining already on our way to the venue. But that didn't stop us from having a good time anyhow! </div>
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After everyone had changed into their costumes, we had a picnic in the indoors of the Old Museum of Vaasa. </div>
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The rain stopped for a while, so we had the chance to do some outdoor activities in the end, too! We had a croquet match...</div>
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...while others danced for a bit. The event is public and you don't have to wear a costume to come so there's some audience on the background.</div>
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But soon we had to get back in because it started raining again.</div>
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Of course there was an obligatory regency wedgie attempt, as usual. :)</div>
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So then we toured the museum again. I already took several photos of it last time so I didn't do that this time. But the grey room upstairs had the best light (most of the rooms are too dark for photos) as well as the most fitting furniture for the era of our costumes, so of course we took some costume photos there.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">(Is anyone else bugged by the fact the table cover isn't ironed?! Because I am. </span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">(And yes, I realize the museum probably isn't equipped with an iron...)</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">)</span></div>
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And before it was time to leave, we also took some similar stroll photos as the previous year.</div>
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There has already been talk about third Gustavian day event again this year, so I really hope it works out again! It has been such an easygoing and pleasant event with a chance to see friends that I really look forward to it already!</div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-35076913232872434782016-12-18T17:12:00.000+02:002017-03-07T09:39:30.557+02:00Williamsburg print gown photos (Fig Leaf Patterns 101)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/06/williamsburg-print-gown-aka-yet-another.html">In the first post about this gown</a> I only showed you photos of the gown on my mannequin (and a teaser). I've worn the dress three time since then this year so now there are plenty of photos of it being worn. Since I already shared most of my thoughts about this gown and pattern in the original post, this is going to be one picture-heavy post. </div>
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The first time I got to wear this gown was at an 18th century assembly in March. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8F-PwhVYqe2ARZb64vJwzbIJz-FFpGol2m6KC4H1yULYWcCIKoPxPjEbqOr4ySC-kh-CEka8u2YnvDXBfwCyYLQvl7B_MmIdOOsO09a-eL5Ctl85XioneQigpoVfiZ2aw5-Sw4FOJOIM/s1600/DSC_0761-2-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8F-PwhVYqe2ARZb64vJwzbIJz-FFpGol2m6KC4H1yULYWcCIKoPxPjEbqOr4ySC-kh-CEka8u2YnvDXBfwCyYLQvl7B_MmIdOOsO09a-eL5Ctl85XioneQigpoVfiZ2aw5-Sw4FOJOIM/s640/DSC_0761-2-3.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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Now here's something I don't think I mentioned earlier - I'm not sure I like how short the bodice is at the front bottom - as you can see, it makes the waistband of the petticoat to show. Also, the skirt of the gown starts from really far at the side so the pocket slits (of the gown and petticoats) do not align, thus making the gown pocket slits useless. Actually, both this and the problem with the petticoat waistband could be fixed just by moving the start of the skirt towards the center front. If you ever plan to use this pattern, you might want consider doing that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZChcYFvUiLXdb_XVlGfGa79UUPApqx2HouOCqmnlmIwF29SYstgAIbxw0ibfCQYi-vxmQkB4IhjvckFct3IgSv9Gc4XXO3yqdhPRDPtr7zpkhYDSQYbwPu3WrmrfEmFi6qoraGU-7XY/s1600/DSC_0867-2-4-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZChcYFvUiLXdb_XVlGfGa79UUPApqx2HouOCqmnlmIwF29SYstgAIbxw0ibfCQYi-vxmQkB4IhjvckFct3IgSv9Gc4XXO3yqdhPRDPtr7zpkhYDSQYbwPu3WrmrfEmFi6qoraGU-7XY/s640/DSC_0867-2-4-2.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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Interestingly, <a href="http://nehelenia.gh1ss7y.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/FI101_2.jpg">the pattern envelope illustrations</a> do not seem to show the side back seams (or not very clearly anyway). I originally thought the bodice would have just four pieces + shoulder pieces (well, actually it does, because the seams next to center front are tucks). Not that it matters but I figured I should mention.</div>
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And the second time I had the chance to wear this gown was already posted on the blog, at <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/08/lamusettes-masquerade-ball.html">L'Amusette's annual masquerade ball</a>. With a white petticoat, gown skirt hem down, and a black belt the look was a little later than the one above. In the first photo below you can also see how roomy the sleeves originally were (as mentioned in my first post about this gown)!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVKLLkV3fNqGhzYQ5Z_b2uf-yhNiZN9gObdDniQ9nqEZvM1iCWn64nduQNy7qLpgoewFGJbtJm66qao3K_x94kM4XE2NzQVboKMn6M3SgrW11swKEP27zpNOBf3hsgR-9g7_pLPUzIdE/s1600/IMG_3541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVKLLkV3fNqGhzYQ5Z_b2uf-yhNiZN9gObdDniQ9nqEZvM1iCWn64nduQNy7qLpgoewFGJbtJm66qao3K_x94kM4XE2NzQVboKMn6M3SgrW11swKEP27zpNOBf3hsgR-9g7_pLPUzIdE/s640/IMG_3541.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRJ4dJrKFSlNvtIT0B_c6XzcTtKyQf8v6uLrxBHXWpRhIRbYbtht8aqfw3UHTFvzqUVg_DAGtCh8yrxH9Om8N3V7msMYALZyuBhrRSho8wGjeQSdJ27DNLAe7_JBmbXWaYt4rHBIMs-E/s1600/IMG_3554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRJ4dJrKFSlNvtIT0B_c6XzcTtKyQf8v6uLrxBHXWpRhIRbYbtht8aqfw3UHTFvzqUVg_DAGtCh8yrxH9Om8N3V7msMYALZyuBhrRSho8wGjeQSdJ27DNLAe7_JBmbXWaYt4rHBIMs-E/s640/IMG_3554.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The gown has a train. Another interesting thing about the pattern is that I didn't have to shorten the skirt even though I'm shorter than average. But the pattern has the original skirt length so I guess that means I'm the same height, from waist down, as the original wearer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtbFe7VDryY-BRNcetx1mdaE7JM6ZRcEqQuZzs7yveD2DkXmzPkFYdAaKod9meR5BiP_QLjx8i-eJeoIBS0OGFkxkpcfhgu3LVe5Jp1NPW5jGkoivTTF3OcSFxHcu63bJoEYEw0FPjT8/s1600/IMG_3509-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtbFe7VDryY-BRNcetx1mdaE7JM6ZRcEqQuZzs7yveD2DkXmzPkFYdAaKod9meR5BiP_QLjx8i-eJeoIBS0OGFkxkpcfhgu3LVe5Jp1NPW5jGkoivTTF3OcSFxHcu63bJoEYEw0FPjT8/s640/IMG_3509-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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And the third wearing was <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/11/picnic-in-suomenlinna-fortress.html">on the picnic that I also already blogged about</a>. This time the skirt was drawn up with tapes again, to keep the train from getting dirty. I had also made new more tight fitting sleeves (!) so here's how they currently look:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZ7EoCvL8KAtB3-V-EHHqkg7quRC7bN3FF732DX4I65t8L3ADzDmEBylEKZKVwhzQdFY_JLyKptr3zFgjmXPeOtBKp9h86iGk2XunkeOHbAVRONq8SQBnwjMDnsVMJrkZA56cpjBormE/s1600/IMG_4063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZ7EoCvL8KAtB3-V-EHHqkg7quRC7bN3FF732DX4I65t8L3ADzDmEBylEKZKVwhzQdFY_JLyKptr3zFgjmXPeOtBKp9h86iGk2XunkeOHbAVRONq8SQBnwjMDnsVMJrkZA56cpjBormE/s640/IMG_4063.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbzgnb01YNfwBy48QqzjdZpQZAuh5j7vq25PhcTTojtEMijr2STaoCjB61RqRRaswAtXoXW-CSEK4ObX0q47Vs6-OQ-cDEAp_U_GqBQWXZOIv3WXeTcGN2EVBJ5hndGKTOZxBqBtaorA/s1600/IMG_4041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbzgnb01YNfwBy48QqzjdZpQZAuh5j7vq25PhcTTojtEMijr2STaoCjB61RqRRaswAtXoXW-CSEK4ObX0q47Vs6-OQ-cDEAp_U_GqBQWXZOIv3WXeTcGN2EVBJ5hndGKTOZxBqBtaorA/s640/IMG_4041.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1q-eVN9HU0WwAumSj5j58l0_PT0g147Iro_ZN02PxeqRSaKJ2NxfnS8XBeaY0rhD5vaLIj7B4z1TSH1w61O66_-e67q0ZYHNCD8XLYDyMvXcHvEuB8mF8opDEWlQLfyRkRaxLp-lI-Y/s1600/IMG_5118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA1q-eVN9HU0WwAumSj5j58l0_PT0g147Iro_ZN02PxeqRSaKJ2NxfnS8XBeaY0rhD5vaLIj7B4z1TSH1w61O66_-e67q0ZYHNCD8XLYDyMvXcHvEuB8mF8opDEWlQLfyRkRaxLp-lI-Y/s640/IMG_5118.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLGhu1FRBEUhwif_5vWlO0-JjJg1-quz9qFJUnCmST2xmviXvj0rCWl_gUIDMlluR96YVfuAajkaDD6oJpfcLPIrNjK0l3m0iTbifrtWBB5yMUR6M5mNYduuxEWSA3fbHCQxkujL3tCY/s1600/IMG_5109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLGhu1FRBEUhwif_5vWlO0-JjJg1-quz9qFJUnCmST2xmviXvj0rCWl_gUIDMlluR96YVfuAajkaDD6oJpfcLPIrNjK0l3m0iTbifrtWBB5yMUR6M5mNYduuxEWSA3fbHCQxkujL3tCY/s640/IMG_5109.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-90973556693971743902016-11-28T20:13:00.004+02:002017-05-05T17:19:15.235+03:00Picnic in Suomenlinna fortress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My summer vacation was in August, which meant I could attend not only one historical picnic, but two! <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/">Noora</a>, <a href="http://ohgloomysunday.blogspot.fi/">Mia</a> and I had decided to do our <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/02/gustavian-day-in-vaasa.html">Gustavian Day event</a> this year in Vaasa again, since it went so well last year, so that was the other event I had decided to attend. I hadn't planned on travelling to Helsinki until very late but I was really happy I could make it since there was not only a picnic to attend but also half of my family lives in Helsinki now, which meant I had the chance to visit them as well during the week I spent there. Anyhow, I will make another post about the Gustavian Day but here are some photos from the picnic in Suomenlinna. </div>
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<a href="http://hww.fi/">The Olde Militia of Helsinki and the Fine Citizens of the Town</a>, a group that I'm a member of, has it's 20th anniversary this year, so the picnic was held in celebration of that and it was supposed to be an informal gathering for the members. Dressing in your earliest period costume was encouraged (no matter how unauthentic it may be!), however, I no longer have my first gown, nor would have I had liked to wear it anyhow since I don't have a lot of chances to dress up.</div>
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There weren't that many of us on the picnic but it was a pleasant day anyhow! With less people it's (at least for me) easier to engage in conversation, when there's no need to bounce from person to another trying to catch up with everyone.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7AnG6uGTtsyQUJUT7wucZSRZSh5hbqNF_Vu6PqtMpaWt5dP5MyshkR1vvzdS8W8aUhvxWtA7TRx0WD7mpAazXiPc8-1ciQf3LnsEjZDbqGGWgjkuVCIgnwt0EDIuO_X5-vTNVlo3MN-s/s1600/IMG_3931-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7AnG6uGTtsyQUJUT7wucZSRZSh5hbqNF_Vu6PqtMpaWt5dP5MyshkR1vvzdS8W8aUhvxWtA7TRx0WD7mpAazXiPc8-1ciQf3LnsEjZDbqGGWgjkuVCIgnwt0EDIuO_X5-vTNVlo3MN-s/s640/IMG_3931-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Mia (aka <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ohgloomysunday/">ohgloomysunday</a>) wore a new outfit, striped jacket and petticoat. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFy5pWT6UD_yx2HVxsa9HId-BWQbkUyXWaKqEnODmzd_zHQtXa2X7Tg7fUAuTUWsqzfCMPiHaY7s3djdPnrEE06W9N_OCJEGMNeXNKm6H0QXEcBranDrWiLiFlq8a-hp8xuzMU6w5hjo/s1600/IMG_3928-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzFy5pWT6UD_yx2HVxsa9HId-BWQbkUyXWaKqEnODmzd_zHQtXa2X7Tg7fUAuTUWsqzfCMPiHaY7s3djdPnrEE06W9N_OCJEGMNeXNKm6H0QXEcBranDrWiLiFlq8a-hp8xuzMU6w5hjo/s640/IMG_3928-3.jpg" width="425" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">With the time limitations and sewing a new dress for Gustavian Day, I decided to wear my <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/06/williamsburg-print-gown-aka-yet-another.html">Williamsburg print gown</a>, which was quite perfect for a summery picnic. </span></div>
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During the train trip to Helsinki, I also managed to hastily decorate a bergère hat that I hadn't had use for earlier. According to weather forecasts, it was supposed to be cloudy and mildly warm, which would have been perfect for costume wearing, but it turned out to be a hot, sunny day, so the bergère was absolutely much-needed.</div>
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We tried to get photos without tourists but it's quite difficult as Suomenlinna is a popular tourist attraction in the summer. </div>
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It was windy...</div>
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...so this happened a few times during the day! ;)</div>
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And a few photos of different parts of Suomenlinna! I've often posted about events that have taken place on the island but I never shared that many pictures of the lovely surroundings there. The reason for that is that I have only been to Suomenlinna in the winter when it's not as picturesque as in the summer. The last time I had been there in summer was actually in 2008 so it had been quite a while! </div>
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The first photo is from the ferry, arriving to Suomenlinna. Suomenlinna is actually a group of islands, connected to each other with bridges, and the ferry takes you to the main island, Iso Mustasaari. </div>
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Here's <a href="http://www.suomenlinnatours.com/english/ehrensvard-museum/">the Ehrensvärd museum</a>, that you perhaps might remember <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2013/12/ehrensvard-museum-and-christmas-ball-in.html">from my earlier post</a> (probably not :P). </div>
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This post is really belated, again, but it seems to be the way blogging is for me now. I still try to make an effort to update this blog when I have the chance, even if I never catch up (wouldn't that be nice)!</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-2952581485976651122016-08-09T22:53:00.000+03:002016-08-10T01:30:04.984+03:00L'Amusette's masquerade ball<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As briefly mentioned in my last post, last April the lovely people of <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/quelscandale/">L'Amusette</a> baroque dance group hosted a masquerade ball in Haihara manor in Tampere. It has become an annual event, with a different theme each year, and this was the fourth time it was arranged. I've been going every year so I think it's about time I provide a glimpse into it since I haven't done that before! I didn't take that many photos but there were a few of nice ones so I'm going to share them, along with a few of my favorite photos by Markku Arvonen. <span style="text-align: center;">This year there were a lot of guests, which of course meant there were many costumes to admire, and I'm sorry for not being able to show you all of them! ;)</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Let us begin with Hanna reading a chapter from an 18th century journal about travels in Turkey. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">There was also a lecture about coffee, which was a luxury product and prohibited several times for some periods of time in 18th century Sweden and Finland. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Next we had supper and there was plenty of food, made with period recipes!</span></div>
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Some time after the supper the ball could really begin. Since everyone was so busy dancing, there aren't any photos of that, so I'm going to show you my photos, in no particular order! </div>
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<a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/">Noora</a> looked beautiful wearing <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/2016/04/la-merveilleuse-orientale.html">her gorgeous sari gown and exotic headdress</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNt4UFbNLyYOkpK-lIXuTFXaP9J-R0U0ug1t0KZDPrWw0oyCKt8WauO8UyT1LVwFFii8AqfsDiWmFOBBJ9KQgbCG2WZAysXybLP1NEUmmQAHDQEmFG2XbYEM-qxlFFOiRWx8DHjOSplMY/s1600/IMG_3533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNt4UFbNLyYOkpK-lIXuTFXaP9J-R0U0ug1t0KZDPrWw0oyCKt8WauO8UyT1LVwFFii8AqfsDiWmFOBBJ9KQgbCG2WZAysXybLP1NEUmmQAHDQEmFG2XbYEM-qxlFFOiRWx8DHjOSplMY/s640/IMG_3533.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Garth and Päivi.</div>
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This year one of the rooms in the manor had been decorated as an oriental boudoir. It turned out to be a great success, and everybody wanted to have their portrait taken in it. And later during the night the boudoir provided a cozy and atmospheric place for casual lounging and chatting with friends! </div>
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<a href="http://ohgloomysunday.blogspot.fi/">Mia</a> in her fabulous robe à la Turque and turban!</div>
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And a photo of me pouring some imaginary exotic beverage for her. ;)</div>
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Ida, one of the the members of L'Amusette.</div>
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Noora and Emilia, both wearing regency dresses in almost matching colors.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8eq5qTAjuiA1jTtUDuc_3U7GAdwj0i2KYwU2Pl4P1HQvAep8PWE-8Py44hJd03ooYQshYhI2wTNei8v0u4ONYC-lnyDSyHTWdm7ZJPgqwGTIRaZt2WWvRmPHQwl8NZr9jkzdhL-4mPtY/s1600/IMG_3697.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8eq5qTAjuiA1jTtUDuc_3U7GAdwj0i2KYwU2Pl4P1HQvAep8PWE-8Py44hJd03ooYQshYhI2wTNei8v0u4ONYC-lnyDSyHTWdm7ZJPgqwGTIRaZt2WWvRmPHQwl8NZr9jkzdhL-4mPtY/s640/IMG_3697.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I'm loving this view from the boudoir into the ball room.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1GTxJ10wDpvjwAVyaD-cST8_GqyueI0NCJtRkb827CST489G1eC3hmj5cJAj_V1gvWQJPM4pKJHXm3Mw68IBnbwtR18fQ7L3b2sbN-1Vq2i3LgL4dgJ_L3ablSDk6WR_YGPeSoC9Liw/s1600/IMG_3726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1GTxJ10wDpvjwAVyaD-cST8_GqyueI0NCJtRkb827CST489G1eC3hmj5cJAj_V1gvWQJPM4pKJHXm3Mw68IBnbwtR18fQ7L3b2sbN-1Vq2i3LgL4dgJ_L3ablSDk6WR_YGPeSoC9Liw/s640/IMG_3726.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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In case you're interested in hearing more about this ball, I urge you to go to <a href="http://www.evildressmaker.com/?p=11433">Rhia's blog</a>. I think she did a much better job capturing the atmosphere of this lovely masquerade than I did! </div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-6357751072770968062016-06-28T12:21:00.000+03:002017-03-07T09:40:01.291+02:00Williamsburg print gown (aka yet another floral print robe à l'Anglaise/Fig Leaf Patterns 101)Can you already tell I'm crazy about cotton prints?<br />
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Honestly, after finishing <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2014/12/brown-floral-print-gown-at-ehrensvard.html">my latest cotton print robe à l'Anglaise</a> I hadn't been planning making yet another floral print gown. There are definitely other projects on my to-do list that I ought to be working on right now. But then <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/">Renaissance Fabrics</a> started offering <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/product-category/cotton/williamsburg-cotton-print/">Williamsburg reproduction print cottons</a> and I could not stop myself from getting some 5 yards of <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/product/williamsburg-trailing-blossoms-blue-cotton-print-1-13-yards/">this trailing blossoms print in blue</a> because I loved it so much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYuPFZ5tD8QYRUprECJjLjut4P_E7DEi_hRkxpTEzoTzKvT_VWx8ZkrlTVN0sA5SAwgx4gBlHye621mOH0xo9XM6yy4XIQ-HR6kbaam1ZbxeA_FXfpPr3KaqRw1n6zl26PPvJIODLOnKI/s1600/IMG_3398-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYuPFZ5tD8QYRUprECJjLjut4P_E7DEi_hRkxpTEzoTzKvT_VWx8ZkrlTVN0sA5SAwgx4gBlHye621mOH0xo9XM6yy4XIQ-HR6kbaam1ZbxeA_FXfpPr3KaqRw1n6zl26PPvJIODLOnKI/s640/IMG_3398-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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This gown was made using <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/90759535/fig-leaf-patterns-101-gown-c1771-1785">Fig Leaf Patterns 101</a>. You can find <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/patternsonlyper/fig-leaf-pattern-101-c-1770s-gown/">photos of the original gown, which the pattern is based on, on Pinterest</a>. I simplified the construction a bit so I left the back facing out and decided not to use the large box pleats just because I prefer the look of smaller pleats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOJjG_9Epl_Qq7bicbw0qAvBn2VMEMajg5y-040PBGQLT73w9FyPd_YEsYXwGUDuMW0PK5WRtnxPB5-A01wM5-VIA7eI0n8_dx2_9ldfh7b7sdtxdCHg57LjUb6_Qm8IBSqLj08HB6XQ/s1600/IMG_3422-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOJjG_9Epl_Qq7bicbw0qAvBn2VMEMajg5y-040PBGQLT73w9FyPd_YEsYXwGUDuMW0PK5WRtnxPB5-A01wM5-VIA7eI0n8_dx2_9ldfh7b7sdtxdCHg57LjUb6_Qm8IBSqLj08HB6XQ/s640/IMG_3422-3.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I also decided to close the gown with pins, after using hooks and eyes for the closure method for my center front closing gowns for a few years. I had tried using pins to close gowns a long time ago when I was just starting out with 18th century costume making but I never liked pinning because I thought it was much easier and faster to close a gown with hooks and eyes. However, I found out that pinning hadn't gotten any easier by now. I especially had problems closing the gown at the waist level so that the back would fit closely/tightly enough. I tried stitching tapes to the back of the waist on the inside of the gown to tie in the front in order to keep the back in place but it didn't work out for me, resulting in awful wrinkling of the fabric in the back. So I added lacing plackets to the lining on the front to make pinning easier, as the lacing helps to keep the bodice tight around the body.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKZW7QU18jvgcopp_-F3JkhyphenhyphenFOB3vAsk03e9J68BA1720saz1m81qlIxoFZb1VjC_wBvW0-T0RMvlZVDj0VA_tKMt0UdRzM6dNzb0VWIVBijgwRHSQ1Kmr7f_aYReQ7Z9kaTyqOgffwcs/s1600/IMG_3390-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKZW7QU18jvgcopp_-F3JkhyphenhyphenFOB3vAsk03e9J68BA1720saz1m81qlIxoFZb1VjC_wBvW0-T0RMvlZVDj0VA_tKMt0UdRzM6dNzb0VWIVBijgwRHSQ1Kmr7f_aYReQ7Z9kaTyqOgffwcs/s640/IMG_3390-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">There's an extra 1/2 inch on the other side of the center front for adjustability (see photo below). What I'm loving about lacing+pinning is that you can lace yourself into your stays more or less tightly depending on how you feel and that it doesn't matter if you loose or gain a bit of weight over time. </span></div>
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I first sewed the lacing plackets to the lining only but then started worrying that the linen might stretch due to the pull of the lacing so I decided to stitch through the cotton as well, so that the stitches are visible on the outside. It's not as obvious in the photos as it is in reality. While looking at extant floral cotton gowns, I was really excited to find out that one <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159201">extant from Met</a> definitely has stitches on the front of the gown so it might be closed in the same manner as mine. </div>
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The plackets have bones in them on both sides of the lacing, in order to and support the eyelets as well as to stop the front from puckering too much .</div>
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What I'm not loving so much is that the floral pattern is unintentionally repeated on both sides of the front. Oh well. I never try to match my prints on seams as it wasn't done as economical cutting was usually more important for such <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-floral-robe-%C3%A0-langlaise/">cotton or linen gowns</a>. </div>
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Plus, of course you want to show off your beautiful seaming, especially in the back! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZLQQppdRXeekb_4uq8djK5pL26rwYmsbQjiiVcu2hPaBXMFHItWOMzm_eGQXsudIm2vWig-XwtOjhyphenhyphenI16lID3nC-S216hk3rSqkSKzKElKrh1l-3e6JtumZ54WZwLhIzI1FzepAhHZcs/s1600/IMG_3414-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZLQQppdRXeekb_4uq8djK5pL26rwYmsbQjiiVcu2hPaBXMFHItWOMzm_eGQXsudIm2vWig-XwtOjhyphenhyphenI16lID3nC-S216hk3rSqkSKzKElKrh1l-3e6JtumZ54WZwLhIzI1FzepAhHZcs/s640/IMG_3414-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The back is actually constructed of only two pieces and the seams next to center back seam are achieved with tucks. The lining is without them. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj904oa6FgNrxldH2HtxCgMFEqXgrDnCEb7fOJ1BQw0i0lG-XfPFrXYKsVnvwOVFEEP-m4SyMr_o_e967tx1lSDYoX9PHplMZ-HddjtZqaPHxB_xI29iQ7pp-q0hVstjkPGFyKf5qoo9vY/s1600/IMG_3885-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj904oa6FgNrxldH2HtxCgMFEqXgrDnCEb7fOJ1BQw0i0lG-XfPFrXYKsVnvwOVFEEP-m4SyMr_o_e967tx1lSDYoX9PHplMZ-HddjtZqaPHxB_xI29iQ7pp-q0hVstjkPGFyKf5qoo9vY/s640/IMG_3885-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The gown is worn with <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2012/09/underwear-for-1770s-and-1780s.html">my 1770s/1780s underwear</a>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ArrajM67SB3NJRGj3khqmP6AU7HN66QIznK7YY3SaORVdZNZfuHQl1HFXQ6baZXRCUIN5P2iZ5aiZBD_ijJo6uCB2OOHy11c-K8mHhoLcmERJNms8qVgq2_-RmQlRnjb8OGOIWh8MgE/s1600/IMG_3409-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ArrajM67SB3NJRGj3khqmP6AU7HN66QIznK7YY3SaORVdZNZfuHQl1HFXQ6baZXRCUIN5P2iZ5aiZBD_ijJo6uCB2OOHy11c-K8mHhoLcmERJNms8qVgq2_-RmQlRnjb8OGOIWh8MgE/s640/IMG_3409-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcHVR85zWXG1_Tcft6lqWcItsZGWYkrnk9g-YLPhsCcMg-WH-qGK4CGQsMfIpEZ4cA3AAS4F70HNvoWm4I1SxYkIM-DvbCJGga_1DQTpfKfx0O6kLjbIfbZcoMPX3xMN7WsMJydScIddQ/s1600/IMG_3411-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcHVR85zWXG1_Tcft6lqWcItsZGWYkrnk9g-YLPhsCcMg-WH-qGK4CGQsMfIpEZ4cA3AAS4F70HNvoWm4I1SxYkIM-DvbCJGga_1DQTpfKfx0O6kLjbIfbZcoMPX3xMN7WsMJydScIddQ/s640/IMG_3411-3.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
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If you're thinking about purchasing this pattern, I say go for it. It comes with a wonderful instructions booklet which I found to be very comprehensive, with everything from information, photos and research about the original gown to general sewing instructions, fitting tips, construction etc. I would imagine this would even be great as your first 18th century gown in case you're just starting out 18th century costume making. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjqPyblQ4b2FYecH4eAdiPS1w24MowQMm_iDtCp33Ywa2MAkA4tH6T-LwVL1CSzVWEP7R5OjsbFyB3XNJxF-RPZuyXM-2uU3lYoixkl0oScwdYkG2iWy6scXZzFLyNT9dksQwjinwusI/s1600/IMG_3903-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVjqPyblQ4b2FYecH4eAdiPS1w24MowQMm_iDtCp33Ywa2MAkA4tH6T-LwVL1CSzVWEP7R5OjsbFyB3XNJxF-RPZuyXM-2uU3lYoixkl0oScwdYkG2iWy6scXZzFLyNT9dksQwjinwusI/s640/IMG_3903-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Also, I think this dress would work the best with a pair of stays like <a href="http://www.jpryan.com/details/stays.html">this</a>, without a dramatic difference between waist and bust measurements. I wear a more curvy type of 1780s stays with this dress so I had to add width to the pattern on the front of the bust. However, there are instructions for making such alterations to the pattern in the booklet, so of course you can wear any type of stays you like, but I thought I'd mention that anyhow.</div>
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The only suggestion I have is to make the sleeves smaller than in the pattern, since I found them to be really roomy, especially for a period when sleeves are more tight-fitting than earlier. And I'm a person with a large arms, often resulting in having to cut the sleeves in the next size by comparison to the bodice size. A nifty thing about the sleeves is that there's a triangle piece under the arm, which allows for movement so this is especially great in case you're going to dance or work while wearing the dress.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEto42yEbspTYAIs3s_dIylt0ohboRjX8-OY2tA6GY18kA6v82TlnYWphlwmKduBg3Xt-Ivp6c1c6bXl4kkE8NG73L5gzj9fzCEAO7skdGtoN9qVuzI4B4l5SyEor1XrmehnAWJ0YMdVg/s1600/IMG_3902-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEto42yEbspTYAIs3s_dIylt0ohboRjX8-OY2tA6GY18kA6v82TlnYWphlwmKduBg3Xt-Ivp6c1c6bXl4kkE8NG73L5gzj9fzCEAO7skdGtoN9qVuzI4B4l5SyEor1XrmehnAWJ0YMdVg/s640/IMG_3902-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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I've already had two chances to wear this gown. Here's a teaser of how it looks when worn, until I get around doing a proper photoshoot and posting about it... This photo was taken at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/quelscandale/">L'Amusette</a>'s spring ball that had an oriental theme.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrIDmXNFb5UxVa6WFkmlTu9M3nks7mWnky1Xh58QTYePGeH2ycuw9bBQRLnyicHLRRqeI8-FnC3Heo-3GTX38e3K0ktQdQPa7E22qNrQjKZtQujAGy5xLIP8FlpP5_4sFIb2VjYemABQ/s1600/IMG_3635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrIDmXNFb5UxVa6WFkmlTu9M3nks7mWnky1Xh58QTYePGeH2ycuw9bBQRLnyicHLRRqeI8-FnC3Heo-3GTX38e3K0ktQdQPa7E22qNrQjKZtQujAGy5xLIP8FlpP5_4sFIb2VjYemABQ/s640/IMG_3635.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-57516438763855687122016-06-14T15:02:00.000+03:002016-06-14T15:22:22.577+03:001880s/1890s corset from Atelier Sylphe pattern<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A couple of years ago I made a short foray from 18th century costume making into Victorian corset making. While I love the result, the corset unfortunately turned out a bit too large so I never got around posting about it or making anything else from this period. However, a while back one of my friends allowed me to take photos of the corset while she tried it on so I finally get to show it to you.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WdifMjJjcn9R6GKbifOYh0Q0OLtxryMPQXb61gi0UySqnKbWrzrOaM4odzMlsd6PmxrLQCilYFcAV3vw1nQJ_Oiyb4m3D_fC4VpKlGod3UR8C-hAdn2puAQQMEJOFB-UGbhKHpaF0fk/s1600/IMG_3857-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WdifMjJjcn9R6GKbifOYh0Q0OLtxryMPQXb61gi0UySqnKbWrzrOaM4odzMlsd6PmxrLQCilYFcAV3vw1nQJ_Oiyb4m3D_fC4VpKlGod3UR8C-hAdn2puAQQMEJOFB-UGbhKHpaF0fk/s640/IMG_3857-7.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The pattern for this corset is <a href="http://www.ateliersylphecorseterie.com/store/p13/REF_P_Patronage_papier_de_corset_ancien_poitrine_cord%C3%A9e.html">the "ref P" style from Atelier Sylphe</a>. I made only a couple of alterations to the pattern by taking it in at the waist and hips but as it turned out I didn't take it in enough at the waist.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqNrv-dxZWTwhE3cyO432xqzRH2qQFBEGVjxruT15MQWajvamXajzDoV14yb4aOPPmuRBSVa7p4Dp3i0rEC0UBbS7SLoorxN8wvH3M-I5tSLJd9gxK3UkgKrIE5Q0rcrV_OgFfyL8_KI/s1600/IMG_3756-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqNrv-dxZWTwhE3cyO432xqzRH2qQFBEGVjxruT15MQWajvamXajzDoV14yb4aOPPmuRBSVa7p4Dp3i0rEC0UBbS7SLoorxN8wvH3M-I5tSLJd9gxK3UkgKrIE5Q0rcrV_OgFfyL8_KI/s640/IMG_3756-4.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">The corset is made out of two layers, one in white heavy weight cotton and the other in blue cotton twill. Would have loved to make this out of blue silk satin, like my favorite </span><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/ZjbOEfOGz62_Cy0u5MoqchnpKmNDk5KPbxiRGSbLP-lG7QeK6B5FDVlHbg=s526" style="text-align: start;">extant corset from this period</a> (from <a href="https://museum-at-fit.culturalspot.org/exhibit/the-corset-fashioning-the-body-2000/ywLSW2u2jYt1Kw?hl=en">The Corset: Fashioning the Body exhibit</a>)<span style="text-align: start;">,</span><span style="text-align: start;"> but I wasn't able to buy that locally so it didn't happen. I knew the corset might not fit, as I didn't make a mock-up, so I was entirely happy with this less expensive material. The boning materials include flat steel and large cable ties. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_apAq8GqhDo27hy0QfloZkKJYvFRE0qzumPMBb2g-7s3NuuGt89GTdX-Wf7wDNVj6HEC1_V4K8SDx7QkGEwNZs1tRTQ7l-Ioe6eVRWrgCRcYvCdoyMgqwuDI1ss9IYx6Lo9B-7dhcDI/s1600/IMG_3794-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_apAq8GqhDo27hy0QfloZkKJYvFRE0qzumPMBb2g-7s3NuuGt89GTdX-Wf7wDNVj6HEC1_V4K8SDx7QkGEwNZs1tRTQ7l-Ioe6eVRWrgCRcYvCdoyMgqwuDI1ss9IYx6Lo9B-7dhcDI/s640/IMG_3794-3.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The flossing in the front was inspired by <a href="http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/detail_81_e.html">this corset from the Kyoto Costume Institute</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hq1Uxc7zAp-l_x7VSbP6eZ_mhdVKM9bfW8zVK2ownfYODyNBIsgl0WOmFDpjRUYxVOGZpx9nUTdEEvzJi7eSj-wfxP1fd811JwhGZQgp3p23fFpSERAp2duh0pYgObe61QiA3i8Oi2U/s1600/IMG_3844-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hq1Uxc7zAp-l_x7VSbP6eZ_mhdVKM9bfW8zVK2ownfYODyNBIsgl0WOmFDpjRUYxVOGZpx9nUTdEEvzJi7eSj-wfxP1fd811JwhGZQgp3p23fFpSERAp2duh0pYgObe61QiA3i8Oi2U/s640/IMG_3844-4.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQ26IsDzPwN-T6xO-hLen6fMBrLtpCD6bl54sPQ1a4aakqxGwBVhcVnXQqIDXMNvQMV_LaLT3IZwfcfnAsVzwUQGyo9KL9wWOtakTvItq4YTEweSP-EBl5cWVhtcKIqNyPibe_spuJjI/s1600/IMG_3831-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQ26IsDzPwN-T6xO-hLen6fMBrLtpCD6bl54sPQ1a4aakqxGwBVhcVnXQqIDXMNvQMV_LaLT3IZwfcfnAsVzwUQGyo9KL9wWOtakTvItq4YTEweSP-EBl5cWVhtcKIqNyPibe_spuJjI/s640/IMG_3831-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm definitely going to make another version of this corset sometime in the future since it's such a nice pattern and I want a gown from this period as well, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Next time I probably wont do contrasting stitching, though, as all less than perfect stitching will be less obvious that way! ;) Also, I really want to use spiral steel as boning material next time since I believe it would accommodate the curves of the corset better than the flat steel that doesn't cup the breasts in a rounded way but sort of flattens and pushes them up here, if you can understand what I mean. </div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-15155318927137789292016-03-05T20:59:00.001+02:002016-03-05T21:11:59.326+02:00Tutorial stays - photos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I know, I know. Showing a pair of stays on a mannequin isn't as ideal as showing them on a body but I thought these photos would be better than no photos at all. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmdASf7GbxobWOzIn7-nVGXk0i5XotoiHGvAqfHvUV7BtLGZfYX0A4d7_AHRoURqR0T8OuQHhgjfqoQhOKFomH7RufcJmgk_k_dGu7E5JnWu7m2tAdSzPJaO6mbBTqrVfxzqXrL57J1I/s1600/IMG_3361-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmdASf7GbxobWOzIn7-nVGXk0i5XotoiHGvAqfHvUV7BtLGZfYX0A4d7_AHRoURqR0T8OuQHhgjfqoQhOKFomH7RufcJmgk_k_dGu7E5JnWu7m2tAdSzPJaO6mbBTqrVfxzqXrL57J1I/s640/IMG_3361-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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You can see shoulders of the mannequin are too small for the stays and so is the bust too low but you can still get an idea of the shape these stays create. For comparison, the pattern for these stays was modified from the same pattern as <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2012/05/1780s-stays-finally-finished.html">my first 1780s stays</a> so the shape pretty similar to them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQE4huJiglnlV980o4RbmwyEAf9_CIANECn4X0Qjj0vUSXHUgKMS8x9_wZ83PGtuoj9DRu1RqsJQZPuen9cj9MSHicWf6ntdcmIrnzbA0bfBy3aASP_5mYyFkjrKO0cpQ8-EeXPoehDg/s1600/IMG_3366-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQE4huJiglnlV980o4RbmwyEAf9_CIANECn4X0Qjj0vUSXHUgKMS8x9_wZ83PGtuoj9DRu1RqsJQZPuen9cj9MSHicWf6ntdcmIrnzbA0bfBy3aASP_5mYyFkjrKO0cpQ8-EeXPoehDg/s640/IMG_3366-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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The boning pattern is a mixture from three extant stays. Unfortunately, I could no longer find the link to the stays that the front panels were based on but the side panels were inspired by <a href="http://62.88.129.39/carlotta/web/object/36458">this pair of stays</a> and the back by <a href="http://art.famsf.org/corset-60152">this</a>. </div>
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I don't think I have much else to say. After all, the construction was already shown <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/search/label/Tutorials">in the tutorial</a>. ;) </div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-78561707265577410242016-02-02T12:47:00.001+02:002016-08-11T10:58:25.848+03:00Gustavian Day in Vaasa<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I never posted photos from our little Gustavian event from last summer so maybe now it's a good time to take a moment to do that. As <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/2015/08/gustavian-day-picnic.html">Noora already explained on her blog</a>, we had been talking about arranging an event that wouldn't require much preparation for quite a long time and that finally came into a reality in early August when Noora invited everyone to a picnic in Vaasa. Since there aren't any (?) early 19th century events in Finland and we really wanted to get dressed in regency costume, we decided on a Gustavian time frame (1771-1809), which allowed us to do that as well as invite friends from 18th century groups to join.</div>
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The picnic was held on the grounds of <a href="http://www.pohjanmaanmuseo.fi/?page=THE+MUSEUM+OF+OLD+VAASA&setlang=l3">the Old Museum of Vaasa</a> which you can see in the background of some of the photos. The (white) building is also called the Wasastjerna house and it was built in the early 1780s.</div>
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The day's activities included setting up... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2CYbPMspyGhOg5qSbYUQl0E6SKxBU-gYf_en6TlwNHw_yKVHbydpkQhqffTI17peu4e1bQm40n_q6hPdbYKW6KywPIOU_uV7Id3mtB_6AP03RGz4F3NSsRTaLSNbes8weUqjAECyzs8/s1600/IMG_2923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2CYbPMspyGhOg5qSbYUQl0E6SKxBU-gYf_en6TlwNHw_yKVHbydpkQhqffTI17peu4e1bQm40n_q6hPdbYKW6KywPIOU_uV7Id3mtB_6AP03RGz4F3NSsRTaLSNbes8weUqjAECyzs8/s640/IMG_2923.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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...having our picnic lunch...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirACsvZ9_ZzjPBrtPvxOqsEKxfcPOZ1u1CBtSRFfBj6Jmjq6zCeq9bes6MIbj5zX8_0Z6nFiG_dyYORAND6SRZntzjqTKWx1RLpHKOvQA8fOEBulRUfw915unjM54_S83uCMvlE4cWQVI/s1600/IMG_2927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirACsvZ9_ZzjPBrtPvxOqsEKxfcPOZ1u1CBtSRFfBj6Jmjq6zCeq9bes6MIbj5zX8_0Z6nFiG_dyYORAND6SRZntzjqTKWx1RLpHKOvQA8fOEBulRUfw915unjM54_S83uCMvlE4cWQVI/s640/IMG_2927.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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...playing graces...</div>
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... and paille-maille.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOCWNsQIBNtMLXuD96HXD6ky7TpphyphenhyphenzG4PBLwwBzufQ6ZHbG7g7369XmW8-ENChDowMTYsQIxdIrhaCzoYaUI0dR776xhnt_3FzpRrifrYoW9Bx_XzVt8Dj-xv4iMzWM23nh6ZTC1ygpo/s1600/IMG_3105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOCWNsQIBNtMLXuD96HXD6ky7TpphyphenhyphenzG4PBLwwBzufQ6ZHbG7g7369XmW8-ENChDowMTYsQIxdIrhaCzoYaUI0dR776xhnt_3FzpRrifrYoW9Bx_XzVt8Dj-xv4iMzWM23nh6ZTC1ygpo/s640/IMG_3105.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm loving this view of Ida's outfit - The plumes! The stripes!</div>
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There was also posing...</div>
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... and strolling like proper regency ladies with Noora.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjStFwaCwlX4m8qwiT08aNzo6fZ-KKUtD6DDxPH-h531XXj3WjeeNQbsp0otr03xY53jc3TTdrYuUdW9QBlFsoTDdCcgZn5jPLjeQK-EYdsD-JGZcMzzjaPqwacVx2rFpw899244QJ4TVI/s1600/IMG_3070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjStFwaCwlX4m8qwiT08aNzo6fZ-KKUtD6DDxPH-h531XXj3WjeeNQbsp0otr03xY53jc3TTdrYuUdW9QBlFsoTDdCcgZn5jPLjeQK-EYdsD-JGZcMzzjaPqwacVx2rFpw899244QJ4TVI/s640/IMG_3070.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Ok, maybe not so proper! </div>
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I must also share a couple of lovely photos of <a href="http://ohgloomysunday.blogspot.fi/">Mia</a> in her 1780s outfit! :)</div>
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We would, of course, visit the inside of the museum as well, where we had a tour guide take us through the rooms. </div>
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Noora's white gown looked absolutely fabulous in the lighting of a Gustavian room on the second floor of the museum so I couldn't pick just one favorite of all the photos I took of her in this beautiful room.<br />
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And here's our whole picnic group!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpnHzZ_VVHYUs1WBrMhvX4JHKTf_gLvJ6-NeMGYFcHoo_QPU8EucvFnBrk1rlmX87wvkP_FVmgXfLMt0xAtBqGDdgiqPz0SxfnSDcuN0WmbK6XXRH7WracFBLwAFCkPLr_2aDGLlcukY/s1600/IMG_3233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpnHzZ_VVHYUs1WBrMhvX4JHKTf_gLvJ6-NeMGYFcHoo_QPU8EucvFnBrk1rlmX87wvkP_FVmgXfLMt0xAtBqGDdgiqPz0SxfnSDcuN0WmbK6XXRH7WracFBLwAFCkPLr_2aDGLlcukY/s640/IMG_3233.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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No regency event is complete without <a href="https://fi.pinterest.com/festiveattyre/regency-ladies-wedgie-society/">regency wedgie</a> picture, right? ;) </div>
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The last things to do before leaving was seeing the most grand building in Old Vaasa, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korsholm_Church">the Korsholm Church</a>...</div>
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...and trying to vaguely recreate <a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1334787&partId=1">this famous satirical print from late 18th century</a> as a photo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQWxszVOQHonH8IX05_T9nKY6MX8eyCG5XSGLvjtKXyfhTlvoLGMhwq3DD8MG_qdxKc1bBzWIdC5Cq75M7ge5MkUiksFPutrFIoNR6ha7ME-7BNG-6WXTdCcPj_nZdpgSbjG0cQFA5-08/s1600/IMG_3342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQWxszVOQHonH8IX05_T9nKY6MX8eyCG5XSGLvjtKXyfhTlvoLGMhwq3DD8MG_qdxKc1bBzWIdC5Cq75M7ge5MkUiksFPutrFIoNR6ha7ME-7BNG-6WXTdCcPj_nZdpgSbjG0cQFA5-08/s640/IMG_3342.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I hope you enjoyed this little throwback post - I sure did! Remembering all the fun we had make me so happy. :)<br />
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Oh, and maybe you noticed I was wearing a new (to this blog) dress. I'll share more about it another time.</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-72102055553845652652015-08-17T14:05:00.000+03:002015-08-18T11:08:52.571+03:00A simple robe en chemise<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
There has been a long silence on the blog this year - but there's a good reason for that. I've had a permanent job since last year, which meant we could finally move out of our small apartment into a new home. Not going into detail but it was quite a long process so it kept me away from blogging over the first half of the year. I'm both relieved and happy to say life is now getting back to normal again. I did manage to make a new dress for a masquerade earlier this year by squeezing some sewing time in in the evenings and mornings here and there but it had to be a very simple dress so I could finish in time. And simple in the 18th century equals a chemise gown, right? :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSC0gTc7BJDRn1g4tj4S5oH2YaFhIB-sj3E0wxZjmxpO5OLtx0ttLuUnqQtw04dztu-usaGUakoWw5JqPiYWTYLgXsm64RVdtK3l6jY7ARiJbx8Kb06oiJ5CxlVp_iyDd97xjemava-oo/s1600/IMG_2853-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSC0gTc7BJDRn1g4tj4S5oH2YaFhIB-sj3E0wxZjmxpO5OLtx0ttLuUnqQtw04dztu-usaGUakoWw5JqPiYWTYLgXsm64RVdtK3l6jY7ARiJbx8Kb06oiJ5CxlVp_iyDd97xjemava-oo/s1600/IMG_2853-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">However, I did not choose the most simple design for this type of gown, which would of course be the very often recreated chemise gown from The Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh. </span>I'm not a big fan of the poofy-ness of 1780s chemise gowns so naturally I'm drawn towards the more fitted types of this style so I made my gown with a fitted back and long tight sleeves. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhHTNnAs9CFWUsEFqFaBxsdzXoh7Cq2STXEqlGeEUtt039uK0NcbGPwIo5lpwFIs1NZSde34yFhBYyGYoMhafULUzLhElyeexgf1XcQvEYATNL78wHvDZ9A61Sp2VpMiBXF-3nutpEuY/s1600/IMG_2845-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijhHTNnAs9CFWUsEFqFaBxsdzXoh7Cq2STXEqlGeEUtt039uK0NcbGPwIo5lpwFIs1NZSde34yFhBYyGYoMhafULUzLhElyeexgf1XcQvEYATNL78wHvDZ9A61Sp2VpMiBXF-3nutpEuY/s1600/IMG_2845-2.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Interestingly, I noticed I could even wear this gown without any stays. Thanks to the heavy lining and the laced closure with bones on either side of it, it kind of works as a light pair of stays (or jumps). I'm not go into the subject of whether it's okay for "a lady" to wear it without stays or not but, having worn <a href="http://having%20worn%20the%20blue%20floral%20robe%20%C3%A0%20l%27anglaise%20to%20a%20picnic%20in%20sweltering%20heat%20a%20few%20years%20back/">the blue floral robe à l'Anglaise</a> to a picnic in sweltering heat a few years back, it definitely feels like a possibility for me, in case I ever go to some outdoor event during the hottest days in the summer again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTQcDHzxyYnwYww38bkOQEi_THeG1ukQO0CcGbgL8Sjikj4VMDjj6rikEE2Yv4P5Lq2UvH1RquzuW-FQz3S9Z-Uw32A8mIHyz7pGmD3Ip1_B8RlFh3tSGQreIQBZnzhBmeIhI5cfyFSU/s1600/IMG_2847-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTQcDHzxyYnwYww38bkOQEi_THeG1ukQO0CcGbgL8Sjikj4VMDjj6rikEE2Yv4P5Lq2UvH1RquzuW-FQz3S9Z-Uw32A8mIHyz7pGmD3Ip1_B8RlFh3tSGQreIQBZnzhBmeIhI5cfyFSU/s1600/IMG_2847-2.jpg" width="422" /></a></div>
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Even if the sheer fabric of this gown is lined with a sturdy lining the bodice is slightly see-through so choosing <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2012/11/completed-1760s-stays.html">the white 1760s stays</a> instead of my 1780s stays felt like a good idea. But of course that means the gown looks really flat in the front since the 1760s stays create a very straight silhouette and I'm not sure if I like how it looks now.<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Does that mean I have an excuse to make a new pair of 1780s stays with a white exterior material? </span>Under the stays I'm wearing <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/search/label/Transitional%20stays">my short-sleeved shift</a>, and with <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2012/09/underwear-for-1770s-and-1780s.html">my 1780s bum pad with two white petticoats on top</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5e6lF72MHmmliV_heTqtxtAaJU5vrYjYNKF-xJavBQZ40IQGMyrEW7T5w7VwnF9OyULXEZCtBqym5sb5jcB7zejFXG9ok4cv-MljG4NrH_hgA7KnEEchQD3q6U0rEEsepJa_G_XXn0lo/s1600/IMG_2846-3-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5e6lF72MHmmliV_heTqtxtAaJU5vrYjYNKF-xJavBQZ40IQGMyrEW7T5w7VwnF9OyULXEZCtBqym5sb5jcB7zejFXG9ok4cv-MljG4NrH_hgA7KnEEchQD3q6U0rEEsepJa_G_XXn0lo/s1600/IMG_2846-3-2.jpg" width="432" /></a></div>
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I also wasn't sure if it would be okay to wear the gown over as large a bum pad as mine since <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-robe-en-chemise/">the majority of the reference images of chemise gowns that I pinned</a> seemed to be worn without any bum enhancements, which makes sense given how informal style this is. However... Why not to make it look even a tiny bit less simple for a masquerade? I could always wear it without a bum pad next time. For the same reason I accessorized the gown with black to create a more dramatic look. What I'm loving about this gown is that it's quite versatile. I've got lots of ideas how it can be worn it differently to different occasions. More on that when an opportunity to wear this gown appears again. :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpKW6n98A6kZO9_dEAUGTcIJRQEC1VcoMOqNzZpLXuj1JrTrTNfvFf_onI7Nwwt6ZTmTETDBKtHDwnvM1X4wxrAqD9VrKNhqfrRhyphenhyphenFj-zKlFM9fCgSt8LU1MWktvh2wcvpChQnZAQKDVU/s1600/IMG_2851-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpKW6n98A6kZO9_dEAUGTcIJRQEC1VcoMOqNzZpLXuj1JrTrTNfvFf_onI7Nwwt6ZTmTETDBKtHDwnvM1X4wxrAqD9VrKNhqfrRhyphenhyphenFj-zKlFM9fCgSt8LU1MWktvh2wcvpChQnZAQKDVU/s1600/IMG_2851-2.jpg" width="420" /></a></div>
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My hedgehog hair-do was the artistry of <a href="http://ohgloomysunday.blogspot.fi/">Mia</a> again. I really think she outdid herself this time! I think she already did <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2014/12/brown-floral-print-gown-at-ehrensvard.html">such a good job last time she did my hair</a> but this time it was just fabulous :) We even powdered my hair by layering a very light coat of white hair powder on top of a bit more grey.<br />
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And below are some sources of inspiration - and more can be found on <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/own-projects-black-and-white-robe-en-chemise/">my Pinterest board</a>, as usual.<br />
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First there is a fashion plate from Cabinet des Modes. A very simple, early robe en chemise, <i>tightened by a Belt of wide black velvet.</i></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgab0Vb1GMmj9nq6wqZNcDItz_hk-XAYmJVbU00TwEggKwbPRv9huYz1qg-5Qg3yIu2UP182LjZ3Mcbn0MWdaAQbRoxy1BP91ew8nLhq1XVtMFeO1ehBhITjWq06hY40CDIeiXuLGkJ3Ws/s1600/010-0000-070+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgab0Vb1GMmj9nq6wqZNcDItz_hk-XAYmJVbU00TwEggKwbPRv9huYz1qg-5Qg3yIu2UP182LjZ3Mcbn0MWdaAQbRoxy1BP91ew8nLhq1XVtMFeO1ehBhITjWq06hY40CDIeiXuLGkJ3Ws/s1600/010-0000-070+-+Copy.jpg" width="387" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"><a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.fi/2014/02/cabinet-des-modes-11e-cahier-1ere.html">Cabinet des Modes, April<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> 1786, via A Most Beguilling Accomplishment.</span></a></td></tr>
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Then we also have the famous paining of Elizabeth Foster, wearing a white chemise gown that is actually very similar to the gown shown in the fashion plate, with a black sash and that straw hat that everybody wants. ;)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"><a href="https://g1b2i3.wordpress.com/2011/10/30/angelica-kauffmann30-octombrie-1741-%E2%80%93-5-noiembrie-1807-pictorita-elvetiana/">Lady Elizabeth Foster, 1786, by Angelica Kauffmann.</a></td></tr>
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It looks like Comtesse de la Châtre isn't wearing a chemise gown in the painting below, but of course there's the black and white theme going on, along with the long sleeves. And again, we have a lady wearing a straw hat. I'm acutally thinking about making a straw hat like <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/237494580325572256/">the one Duchesse de La Rochefoucauld is wearing in the image in the link</a>. Notice it's very similar to Comtesse's hat, except with a poofy top, and that the painting is dated to the same year as well.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ep/original/DP320086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ep/original/DP320086.jpg" height="640" width="499" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/437900">Comtesse de la Châtre, 1789, by Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun.</a></td></tr>
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There are of course several inspirational chemise gowns made by some talented costumers out there. I'm admiring <a href="http://mode-de-lis.blogspot.fi/2014/11/1780s-chemise-dress.html">Lily's chemise gown</a> with a Van Dyke collar and styled with such a fun head-dress. Caroline looked oh so elegant wearing <a href="http://anno1776.blogspot.fi/2014/05/18th-century-masquerade.html">her champagne colored chemise</a> and who doesn't love <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/2012/08/a-proper-mourning.html">Jen's mourning chemise</a> or <a href="http://demodecouture.com/1780s-gaulle-a-la-polignac/">Kendra's gaulle à la Polignaq</a>. Just to name a few.<br />
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-24457704617679723542015-05-21T08:15:00.000+03:002017-03-03T17:47:12.605+02:0018th century stays - tutorial - part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
In <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2013/12/speedy-18th-century-stays-tutorial-part_20.html">Part 2</a> of this tutorial we got to a point where your stay pieces were joined together. Now it's time to whip stitch the seam allowances down after the fitting session (and doing possible alterations, as in my case<span style="color: red;"> </span>replacing the front panels with wider panels). Shortly after finishing this part of the construction, I learned from <a href="http://18thcstays.blogspot.fi/2009/07/inside-up-close.html">18thcenturystays</a> that you could also double the thread as it's stronger than single thread<i> </i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(so you can do that).</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqf5aHGPhckd6GHBs0N4gsOP9q7XWUL2-VSdTCMOWgdeR3HPLxT0jZHuTUZXhdJ0SmR2HNI-rBv0icHU3beFOI5j_8b6dn8_pxfXcbyrmUJ1cXvrcwaSL098vTxQLt5ieGPlwYScNoDlE/s1600/188090+002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqf5aHGPhckd6GHBs0N4gsOP9q7XWUL2-VSdTCMOWgdeR3HPLxT0jZHuTUZXhdJ0SmR2HNI-rBv0icHU3beFOI5j_8b6dn8_pxfXcbyrmUJ1cXvrcwaSL098vTxQLt5ieGPlwYScNoDlE/s1600/188090+002.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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After that, it's time to mark the places for the lacing holes. When I made my first pair of stays this was one of the most puzzling parts for me to figure out and I didn't do it right at first which caused the sides of my stays not to meet evenly at the back. Of course, I hadn't seen Jen of <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/">the Festive Attyre</a>'s post <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/p/the-zen-of-spiral-lacing.html"><i>The zen of the spiral lacing</i></a> yet so I had to learn this the hard way. Anyhow, I'm just going to take Jen's instuctions a step further and show you how to figure out the places for the lacing holes step by step.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I hope the following makes sense... </span><br />
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First, mark the upper and lowermost holes to the panels, between the two boning channels. The uppermost hole is 1 cm down from the upper edge of your stays at both front and back. If you've got a front lacing, you can mark the lowermost hole 1 cm away from the lower edge at the front as well. However, at the back the lacing doesn't go all the way down because it isn't necessary. There you mark the lowermost hole at the waist line because you don't need lacing below that. That usually means the spot shown in the diagram below <span style="font-size: x-small;">(1.)</span>.<br />
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Next follows the crucial part in getting the sides of your stays to meet evenly at the back. On the left side of your stays, mark a hole 1 cm away from the lowermost hole and, on the right side, mark one 1 cm away from the uppermost hole <span style="font-size: x-small;">(2.)</span>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdK0ZoDv_p5aOwGAxgRvr3K1CGPHIKMLr69fVX-IpScs8S4-aePJrJsDol6Jz9WFTJb1VTm6vB-WQ6sFodkkz-THQi7IWxnuJNl_SLc_zYxuIPc9v2pCuiWK_zQm_QVYOgFjX__QT6t9M/s1600/diagram+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdK0ZoDv_p5aOwGAxgRvr3K1CGPHIKMLr69fVX-IpScs8S4-aePJrJsDol6Jz9WFTJb1VTm6vB-WQ6sFodkkz-THQi7IWxnuJNl_SLc_zYxuIPc9v2pCuiWK_zQm_QVYOgFjX__QT6t9M/s1600/diagram+1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Then it's time to figure out how many lacing holes you want your stays to have on each side of the back. From 48 extant stays with photos of their backs from <span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/">my Pinterest</a>, the majority had either 10 (9), 12 (11) or 13 (8) holes but the range was from 7 to 15 holes. </span><br />
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From counting the amount of lacing holes of extant stays with front lacing, I got the range from 6 to 10 with the majority at 8 (6 stays from 12 altogether).*<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">*I didn't take 1780s partial front lacings, stays with stomachers nor very short 1790s stays into count.</span><br />
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Generally, two things have an effect on how many lacing holes you're going to need:<br />
the distance between your waist and bust line (i.e. the length of the front and back panels of your stays), and - how far from each other you're going to place your holes.<br />
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Upon my experience, I would say it's best to place your lacing holes approximately 2,5-2,7 cm away from each other. 3 cm or more is pretty far and 2 cm is pretty close so you'll end up having to stitch more lacing holes and requiring a longer lacing string. <i>Plus,</i> more lacing holes means you're going to spend more time lacing yourself into your stays.<br />
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Measure the distance between your marked lacing holes as shown in the diagram below <span style="font-size: x-small;">(3.)</span> and divide the distance with 10 in case you want to have 12 holes like I did. (with 11 if you want to have 13 holes and so forth...) I got 2,45 cm this time, which was, as explained, a desirable distance between the lacing holes.<br />
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The last thing to do is to mark the rest of the lacing holes <span style="font-size: x-small;">(4.)</span>. ;)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-1i0y88jQdObF54PRFT9Zhp70IlO4YfoRRljr_uYqddNroefJfCqepgDktB8fVRXV5eDLGlpGiemwpQcOOb1ea5RvW467q7whwxRV2Fyt0URvRqQuAfGG26Q-_NnnD_WHdz9hLYL9Qk/s1600/diagram+2+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-1i0y88jQdObF54PRFT9Zhp70IlO4YfoRRljr_uYqddNroefJfCqepgDktB8fVRXV5eDLGlpGiemwpQcOOb1ea5RvW467q7whwxRV2Fyt0URvRqQuAfGG26Q-_NnnD_WHdz9hLYL9Qk/s1600/diagram+2+copy.jpg" width="532" /></a></div>
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Then it's time to stitch your lacing holes. Of course, if I was more true to the "speedy" theme here, I could use metal eyelets but I tend to prefer hand-stitched lacing holes nowadays simply because a) they look accurate and b) it's actually quite fast to make them with the right materials and tools.<br />
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You will need to get an awl to make the holes. Preferably a tapered one, <span style="font-size: x-small;">unlike mine</span>.<br />
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In case you want larger holes than mine you can also try to gently stretch them. Or<span style="color: red;"> </span>just make your life easier and get that tapered awl. ;)<br />
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Using buttonhole thread, whip-stitch around the hole. Please don't attempt to try to use your regular sewing thread! It will just make the process slower and your lacing holes will be less pretty. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Been there, done that, unfortunately...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYifATWBuVlnBUzaXvCyzbCn2ReNSV6oFz2odgLnHcX0OaDkTz32pvNkodrF5H9DM996LwVnxFZP6_mMaw8DTW9soZXUH8jZ5l94WQun41J3puxXtRVyxgPWNQpVL0mt7E8sFESqL9fws/s1600/Kuva+011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYifATWBuVlnBUzaXvCyzbCn2ReNSV6oFz2odgLnHcX0OaDkTz32pvNkodrF5H9DM996LwVnxFZP6_mMaw8DTW9soZXUH8jZ5l94WQun41J3puxXtRVyxgPWNQpVL0mt7E8sFESqL9fws/s1600/Kuva+011.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The first lacing hole done!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCUM1-DyvSKXstPnl1zeLaaC8xh_6KlFY0yChf7JivBwjv0eTpC6LGLFefget_MkApjmLPjGpqZOoFnjozpXfV9y5MtXpKOAQc69weLA1mEmgRRrKeMKMWIgAhWJur8PXdOjoOX5MLNZg/s1600/Kuva+024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCUM1-DyvSKXstPnl1zeLaaC8xh_6KlFY0yChf7JivBwjv0eTpC6LGLFefget_MkApjmLPjGpqZOoFnjozpXfV9y5MtXpKOAQc69weLA1mEmgRRrKeMKMWIgAhWJur8PXdOjoOX5MLNZg/s1600/Kuva+024.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then just keep repeating...<br />
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...and repeating...<br />
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...until you're done. :)<br />
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Below you can also watch an eyelet making video by Burnley & Trowbridge.<br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/stIpXnGyZRw/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/stIpXnGyZRw?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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After finishing the eyelets, move on to cutting the lining from linen. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmolEe-s4xTc1TDvTxxB6H5svFMPX3oeAdOm-BfxcR__Xmn5bWutPrW7n2ekO6h9fctPaVywuX3ok3l-N5c46L4qkjUHT-qMcg7jbs0FXVLgH3VaAMwFxdkEzt5sLDhxN5d3zbKk6NjGI/s1600/P5070032.JPG">The lining consists out of four pieces + shoulder straps (+ tabs, if you're doing this the proper way)</a> + a small additional piece(s), as to be explained. Preferably, place the seam in the the middle of your stays as seen in the photo in the<span style="color: red;"> </span>link. I cut the lining by using the pattern for the stays but you could also simply lay<span style="color: red;"> </span>your stays on the linen and cut around the edges and trim the edges as you go (that's easier and faster if your making an earlier type of stays that lays flat on the floor since it's quite straight without the swooping bust shaping of the 1780s as here). Notice that it's best that you don't cut the parts between the tabs yet, just like earlier.<br />
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After cutting the lining pieces, start by pinning your front piece to your stays with the seam allowances turned under and the edges left raw. As you can see from the photo, I already stitched the upper edge of the lining to the stays by machine.<br />
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Then stitch the piece around the rest of the edges and whip stitch the turned-under seam allowances to the stays by hand. After the front piece is added, pin the back piece of the lining and repeat the same process as with the front piece. Notice it might be easier for you to to stitch around the tabs by hand with long stitches than with the machine.<br />
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Then cut a small piece for the part where the panels of the stays overlap and that you therefore couldn't cut as one with the lining piece. Also, add the lining to the straps. You can easily stitch it around the edges with the machine again. It looks I forgot to take a photo of this part of the construction but it's straightforward enough for you to do without. :)<br />
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Then we move on to the last bit that almost everybody says they hate the most when making stays because stays have tabs and they're tricky and binding them makes your fingers sore. I've previously shared some tips about the binding on the blog but I'm not going to assume<span style="color: red;"> </span>you've read them or that you still remember them... so here we go with some tips to make the binding easier for you.<br />
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First and foremost, do not attempt to try to use a wide binding tape. The wider, the worse it gets. If you're using precut bias tape, it should be the narrowest kind available (which, I believe, is the 1 cm width). It's going to take quite a bit of skill and patience to get the 1,5 cm wide bias tape beautifully bound around the edges of your stays so spare yourself and don't try to do it. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Again, been there, done that. </span>A wider type of binding material simply doesn't end up looking as good as a narrower binding. If you already haven't, take a look at extant 18th century stays and you will notice that the bindings on them are quite narrow <i>and that is for a reason</i>. Anyone who has been making 18th century costumes for a while, has probably also learned that bias tape isn't accurate either (I recommend getting <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Costume-Close-Up-Clothing-Construction-1750-1790/dp/0896762262"><i>Costume Close-Up </i> by Linda Baumgarten</a> for more information on this).<br />
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At the moment my favorite binding material is 7 mm wide twill tape because it's stretchy so it's easy to get smoothly and beautifully bound around the edges. I also like to start stitching the binding from the inside of the stays because that way you have more control over your binding material later when your binding is already intact on the inside. Plus, you can use more generous and faster stitches on the inside of your stays so you can spare the tiny, beautiful stitches for the outside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiA3JxH0ORcs25Tu2WMwa46BuVeWnrVG-apLCt2H1UIAcXWvHfOTCBRzai14029-JXzcgt9bAx7B39_-Q6YSgon1C0yUNepDsbLPuUxi6JGddCrBn7W7dPtkt34147UBkAAze-1cgNg8I/s1600/Isokyro+021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiA3JxH0ORcs25Tu2WMwa46BuVeWnrVG-apLCt2H1UIAcXWvHfOTCBRzai14029-JXzcgt9bAx7B39_-Q6YSgon1C0yUNepDsbLPuUxi6JGddCrBn7W7dPtkt34147UBkAAze-1cgNg8I/s1600/Isokyro+021.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
I would advise to stitch the binding completely by hand because it's just much more manageable by hand than by machine - <i>especially</i> if you're a beginner and it's hard for you to stitch very precise parts by machine.<br />
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Thirdly, I think the square types of tabs are easier to bind than the rounded ones because you can simply fold the binding at the corners of your square tabs instead of having to gather the binding slightly to get past the round parts smoothly. But I believe this is just a personal preference so you might feel like the rounded tabs are just as easy. However, it seems the rounded tabs are more popular among people who have made 18th century stays simply because popular sewing pattern and guidebooks such as <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Corsets-Crinolines-Norah-Waugh/dp/0878305262"><i>Corsets and Crinolines</i></a> and <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Period-Costume-Stage-Screen-1500-1800/dp/0887346103">Period Costume for Stage and Screen</a> </i>feature them, regardless of the fact on extant stays the square or squarish types of tabs seem to be more common.<br />
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For comparison, below is an image with some tabs and bindings that I've used previously. The first is 1 cm wide cotton bias tape on the squarish tabs of <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2013/03/brown-kci-stays.html">my brown KCI stays</a>. While it looks good, it kind of looks a bit off. The binding has definitely started to bug me since this pair of stays took probably the longest for me to make and yet they don't look as perfect as they could. I think it's mainly caused by the binding. It's simply too wide for 18th century, even if the visible part is only 5mm. The second photo on the left shows round tabs with the same material and width so the same problem applies to them. Notice the gathering on the round parts. On the third photo on the upper right we have the same binding material and width again but the tabs are square tabs so the binding is folded over the corners. The last, below right photo shows a pair of stays that I made before any of the other stays seen here, with 1,5 cm polyester satin bias tape. I think that's actually pretty decent work considering how I hadn't been sewing for a very long time at this point yet, but it's definitely a bit uglier than the other bindings. Round tabs + polyester satin + 1,5 cm width isn't an accurate looking combination at all.<br />
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And below you can see how much better the narrow binding looks!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLULutfclRYVOoSG5Ib3Ihlb3L6OXpZTDt8yhxrhTnnuUD6W8QGHVq7xWvZqmFOclEEvvwwa8ptl3H7hICZ8u1pCNdgezXNcm5JMcwvyBibm1cGgWipcIznpOK_4HaGUu2r8IDIkZT3XE/s1600/Isokyro+025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLULutfclRYVOoSG5Ib3Ihlb3L6OXpZTDt8yhxrhTnnuUD6W8QGHVq7xWvZqmFOclEEvvwwa8ptl3H7hICZ8u1pCNdgezXNcm5JMcwvyBibm1cGgWipcIznpOK_4HaGUu2r8IDIkZT3XE/s1600/Isokyro+025.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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And then there's the one last thing to do: adding the lacing holes for the ribbons that hold the shoulder straps and front panels in place.<br />
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After that... Congratulations, you're done! :) I hope this tutorial was helpful!<br />
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Photos of the finished stays on a mannequin can be found in <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2016/03/tutorial-stays-photos.html">this separate blog post</a>.</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-81099968210675183192014-12-04T15:24:00.001+02:002016-03-31T20:29:16.103+03:00Brown floral print gown at the Ehrensvärd museum<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I don't know if you still remember but <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2014/08/18th-century-low-class-outfit.html">earlier I mentioned an outfit that I couldn't finish on time for the Isokyrö event in August</a>. Well, now it's done, but I only finished it a couple of days ago - so it was more than three months late for the original deadline. The dress would propably still be unfinished by now if I hadn't set a new deadline for it for this year's Christmas ball. Originally I had planned to wear the same dress as last year and make the naval riding habit for a parade preceding the ball but obviously it didn't happen as I'm behind on pretty much everything regarding to sewing (and blogging, too...). Alright, on to the new dress! </div>
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I've always loved <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-floral-cotton-robe-%C3%A0-langlaise/">the white floral print gowns from the 1770s/1780s</a> but they are so very common so wanted something a bit different for myself. After discovering <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-dark-floral-robe-%C3%A0-langlaise/">some floral gowns in darker fabrics through museums collections</a> I knew I had to have one like them some day. It took a couple of years but then <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2014/05/fabrics-and-cars.html">earlier this year I managed to find a Moda print fabric</a> through <a href="http://hertzwerk-freiburg.blogspot.fi/">Herzwerk-Freiburg</a> that was even more lovely than I had hoped for. The fabric was nearly out of print everywhere so I ended up ordering from three different sources to have enough of it.</div>
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For the bodice and sleeves I used a robe à l'Anglaise pattern from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Cut-Womens-Clothes-1600-1930-published/dp/B00E324CK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1399880693&sr=1-4&keywords=the+cut+of+women%27s+clothes+1600-1930"><i>The Cut of Women's Clothes</i> by Norah Waugh</a> (see diagram XXII). Working the same way as I always do, I enlarged the scale pattern on the computer and printed it out. However, this pattern turned not to work easily for me and the fact that I had to make quite a few mock-ups with so many alterations delayed the completion of this gown. Also, it didn't help that the fabric stretched a bit more than I had imagined and the stretch of the mock-up fabric was also different... I swear I've never had so much trouble fitting sleeves as with this dress <span style="font-size: x-small;">(I guess I only now truly understand the meaning of sleevils ;) )</span>. Not having made sleeves like this earlier I wasn't even sure how they were supposed fit/look but I think they turned out to be alright in the end. </div>
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To upgrade the look of a brown day gown into a dress suitable for a ball I added some red accessories, using the same ear rings as last year and the belt that I have worn with pretty much every fitted back gown that I have.</div>
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I also intended to make a matching petticoat from the same fabric for this dress but decided to use a sheer white petticoat this time to further enhance the evening gown look and leave the self fabric petticoat for day wear occasions. I'm probably going to wear this dress at the 18th century fair of Isokyrö next year so the brown color of the matching petticoat should be much better for outdoors than the delicate white. The skirt of the dress will also be draped up to avoid the slight train from dragging in ground.</div>
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The dress has a tight fitting quarter back but the floral pattern of the fabric conceals the seamlines so you can't see much of them here. I'm actually really happy with the fit of the back since the back of this gown fits more smoothly than <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2012/10/1780s-striped-robe-langlaise-at.html">the back of my earlier quarter back gown that had wrinkles all over it</a>. There's also a slight train but I made a cutting mistake and it ended up being shorter than I had intented. Looking at the photos, I notice that the train isn't even either - it is longer at the sides of the center back than in the very center. But right now I don't care. Especially because I want to make a divided bum pad like <a href="http://www.afracturedfairytale.com/My-Blog/September-2014/The-Bum-Shop.aspx">Aubry of A Fractured Fairytale</a> did or at least a bum pad with a dip at the center back, which should fix that problem. </div>
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My hairdo was created by <a href="http://ohgloomysunday.blogspot.fi/">Mia</a>, a new friend who traveled with me to the ball for her first time. I feel so lucky that I now have a friend who understands sewing and lives permanently in my hometown! Meeting her has been one of the best things in the past few months and the fact that I met her through my blog helped me to get over my blogging anxieties that have partly kept me away from posting for a while. It reminded me again that there are quite a few lovely people that I might have never met if I didn't have this blog...<br />
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All of these photos are also taken by Mia, at the Ehrensvärd museum that you might have already recognized from last year's Christmas ball posts. For some reason <span style="font-size: x-small;">(read: because we were too busy doing last minute sewing)</span> we forgot to check the museum opening hours and the museum was just closing as we arrived there. But the museum guide was kind enough to let us take a few photos before leaving. :)<br />
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Here's Augustin Ehrensvärd himself up in the middle with Noora and I posing next to him. </div>
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And last but certainly not least, Mia wearing <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/2014/07/floral-robe-langlaise-and-new-shoes.html">Noora's floral robe à l'Anglaise</a>.</div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-81924716761537519532014-12-02T17:29:00.000+02:002014-12-02T17:29:25.138+02:0018th century fair of Isokyro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This post is coming really, <i>really</i> late but at least I'm trying to catch up on blogging because I've been gone for too long. Instead of writing about all aspects of this lovely weekend in August I'm simply going to give you a short tour around our little booth at the 18th century fair of Isokyrö since - apart from meeting friends from far - it was the focus of my trip.</div>
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Below: Maija of <a href="http://www.couturemayah.info/">Couture Mayah</a> on the left and Noora of <a href="http://shadowofmyhand.blogspot.fi/">The Shadow of My Hand</a> on the right welcoming you at the booth.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbzVzrmRIvPaCHC5Ya_lVHo8lV4NQ3xrJv2TyP12dF2CgSty2xjiL2xwYXqmsonXX076C7QMSqg2QZRj0q7QJjSlSH91WCAHKEaDe9SSlxV5eHlctEIWxkDlMPCMumt-GwgSih5lpHgxY/s1600/Isokyro+175.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbzVzrmRIvPaCHC5Ya_lVHo8lV4NQ3xrJv2TyP12dF2CgSty2xjiL2xwYXqmsonXX076C7QMSqg2QZRj0q7QJjSlSH91WCAHKEaDe9SSlxV5eHlctEIWxkDlMPCMumt-GwgSih5lpHgxY/s1600/Isokyro+175.png" height="458" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's Hanna preparing for the weekend at our booth on Friday after arriving in Isokyrö. <span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span style="text-align: left;">As you will be able to tell from my photos, we had all sorts of historical and contemporary fashion items for sale.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnkC5spfCPX0x9zkyZlGQ8XK0nRMQQHNqCloEuaaOBYNOn1YgkA4IL57cWVRKT3mfn-h1xl3y87pXQwME_I-G43-_hOok6ihmvWauXMKHXx109JhhgnwmfDr4PaJbOFCSuYICtd504Ng/s1600/Isokyro+069.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnkC5spfCPX0x9zkyZlGQ8XK0nRMQQHNqCloEuaaOBYNOn1YgkA4IL57cWVRKT3mfn-h1xl3y87pXQwME_I-G43-_hOok6ihmvWauXMKHXx109JhhgnwmfDr4PaJbOFCSuYICtd504Ng/s1600/Isokyro+069.png" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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Noora arranging her things on Saturday...</div>
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A couple of bum pads were hung from the ceiling. ;)</div>
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Noora had also made some cute garters and mitts for sale. </div>
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You could also buy L'Amusette's calendar for 2015 at the booth. It has got breathtakingly amazing photos inspired by some famous 18th century paintings. </div>
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More people from our booth group: Emilia and Ida.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIC_Hiqa8hdUI8aguBL1r0QvnhWgSqScHCwhMZgCrFXMCBX1xZlog3GLeu6nhAsCEiCSedqqR44LkmEM5e13Gan4nTFhduPJcHQTWUVp6AekhXUNUZGYJVdN7Fl77jrGvoccu1exuvmpE/s1600/Isokyro+283.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIC_Hiqa8hdUI8aguBL1r0QvnhWgSqScHCwhMZgCrFXMCBX1xZlog3GLeu6nhAsCEiCSedqqR44LkmEM5e13Gan4nTFhduPJcHQTWUVp6AekhXUNUZGYJVdN7Fl77jrGvoccu1exuvmpE/s1600/Isokyro+283.png" height="640" width="410" /></a></div>
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Our booth sign, made by Maija and Hanna. Isn't it just adorable? :)</div>
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Here's one portion of the market place on Friday. Also, you could see glimpses of the Old Church of Isokyrö in my last post and here it is again in the background.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrcFkuNPyAiQ0Ok-U20HxKpqFFIxtNXyNfThq9EeWAnVBnQTdB733mkbTeJOZz7mA3dzKlLRuLVe2kxADTPT9noOudlMslFBCFeXlbVVvEfC803U3UZ74laEOlMiSDxQoEUaX3gO9s-k/s1600/Isokyro+049.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQrcFkuNPyAiQ0Ok-U20HxKpqFFIxtNXyNfThq9EeWAnVBnQTdB733mkbTeJOZz7mA3dzKlLRuLVe2kxADTPT9noOudlMslFBCFeXlbVVvEfC803U3UZ74laEOlMiSDxQoEUaX3gO9s-k/s1600/Isokyro+049.png" height="430" width="640" /></a></div>
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And then the same place again on Saturday (photo taken looking from the church towards the opposite direction than the photo above)... </div>
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The church made a wonderful background for photos so of course we took many pictures in front of it. Here's a favorite.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguiIkp0BYTDvs9iTQ0Vv15lSGY52pMkEVu-IR2civSLEGRhb_0Tfm6mUlfuPRUtzOgRmpEhX14vd-qPYemK9nc_6CVHN8owYXuu2dUpVYGu3EMSoZ4ber6Pm_KA0q4LwL65qmJYZKgZDg/s1600/Isokyro+079.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguiIkp0BYTDvs9iTQ0Vv15lSGY52pMkEVu-IR2civSLEGRhb_0Tfm6mUlfuPRUtzOgRmpEhX14vd-qPYemK9nc_6CVHN8owYXuu2dUpVYGu3EMSoZ4ber6Pm_KA0q4LwL65qmJYZKgZDg/s1600/Isokyro+079.png" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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Also, I got a punishment for being so <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2014/08/18th-century-low-class-outfit.html">indecently dressed</a>. </div>
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On Sunday Noora lent her jacket to me. (You can't go to a church mass in your underwear, right?!) We had not realized that we were almost the same size until this... so at the moment I'm borrowing her pattern for this jacket as I had been planning to make one as well.</div>
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In case you want to read more about this event (and see more photos) head over to <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_3057032"></span>The Shadow of My Hand<span id="goog_3057033"></span></a>.</div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-4724604174630996142014-07-25T17:23:00.000+03:002014-08-16T09:52:04.181+03:00A visit to a local museum<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
A week ago I finally went to see a small local museum that I've been meaning to visit for ages but never got around to go there. It's called <a href="http://www.ouka.fi/oulu/ppm/merimiehen-kotimuseo-in-english">Sailor's Home Museum</a> and it's located in a building that was built in the 1730s. The rooms of the house are furnished in 1880s style to represent a sailor's home and tenant's quarters. Because I actually ought to be sewing for an event that's only two weeks from now, I'm simply going to share my photos from the museum without much further introduction.</div>
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We'll start with the tenant's quarters...</div>
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The wallpapers of the house were probably my favorite part from the museum. They were beautiful and I also loved that they weren't all perfect and spotless but they were partly crumpled on the walls and had imperfections in the matching of the papers.</div>
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Two of the rooms in the house also had painted walls instead of wallpapers.</div>
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The blue bed chamber was my favorite, <i>of course</i>! ;)</div>
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A close-up of the lovely wallpaper...</div>
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And here's the building from the outside...</div>
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The visit to the museum was nice although it was a <i>very </i>short one since I was there with someone who is almost not at all interest in history and who doesn't have much understanding nor appreciation for photography either. This is unfortunately not the first time I get reminded that you really should always go to a museum who is as much interested in seeing it as you... and who has the patience to wait for you to take as many photos as you like so you don't have to take them hastily...</div>
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The next post will be about sewing, I swear! ;)</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-64220330198100585582014-07-02T13:42:00.002+03:002015-06-16T09:08:35.120+03:00Similarities...This following fashion plate has appeared on my Pinterest feed quite a few times over the past couple of days and I guess many of you, who have already seen the said fashion plate and spent a lot of time browsing the pages of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Cut-Womens-Clothes-1600-1930/dp/0878300260">The Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh</a>, have noticed that the cut of the dress depicted in it looks quite close to one of the patterns in the book (see diagram XXXII). It's a pity London Museum doesn't have photos of the original garment, that the pattern was taken from, on their online collections so we can't compare the fashion plate with it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JOURNAL-DES-LUXUS-REGENCY-FASHION-PLATE-DECEMBER-1795-RARE-/181452507322?pt=UK_art_prints_GL&hash=item2a3f6988ba" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Journal des Luxus, December 1795.</a></td></tr>
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This fashion plate also reminds of a quite similar dress (in cut) in a painting by Louis Léopold Boilly (below).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wga.hu/html_m/b/boilly/">At the entrance (1796-1798), by Louis Léopold Boilly.</a></td></tr>
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Why am I bringing this up on the blog, then? Mainly, just out of the joy of sharing and, secondly, because I find the raising waistlines of the 1790's very appealing and would love to sew a gown similar in style to these dresses in the future. This is something I'm only dreaming about so therefore it's not going to happen any day soon. But I wanted to write a brief post abut it anyway since the dresses of this type were definitely on my mind when I began to sew <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/2014/05/transitional-stays-c-1794-1800-chemise.html">my pair of transitional stays</a> that I think would work wonderfully for something like these gowns, with rising waists and gathered fronts.<br />
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Now, who's tempted to buy that fashion plate from Ebay? ;)</div>
Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-22442161694138798002014-05-12T09:07:00.000+03:002014-05-15T11:43:34.576+03:00Transitional stays c. 1794-1800, chemise and under-petticoat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here come the photos of the first garments that I've actually finished this year. It's such a relief to get something done completely because my projects haven't exactly gone smoothly in the past four months, which has resulted in leaving me with more UFOs than, well, ever before. That's also why I didn't post anything for a while, but I guess that happens to most of us sometimes, right? :) </div>
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Let's start with having a look at the front of the stays. I'm actually really happy I put more bones into the front panels of the stays than in the original pattern because I'm almost certain that there would be more creasing if I hadn't done so. Plus, the extra bones support the bust from below without making the stays any less comfortable. Should I ever make another pair of stays with this pattern, I might place the cups slightly closer to the center front because it's just not possible for my breasts to be quite this far apart - even if the aim is to get that separation effect. The issue doesn't really show much on the photos and I'm quite sure you can't tell once I'm wearing a gown on top of the stays so right now I'm just going to stick with this pair. Also, a<span style="text-align: center;">dding more width to the lower part of the cups might help with the creasing that you can see at the front.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjItbrPePEsl5R9hfoJxUXtY5xyF4WCTw3dCMr1fs7SAYJZ2FENfSHB2sQrrB2-J9faU9hErT-6Kku7eHFzpHt8_-_7LYLneLWBydprg9T0HTzSFQyOxE9389H51cVHdrqCK3CWpuoEU3Q/s1600/Empire+0273.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjItbrPePEsl5R9hfoJxUXtY5xyF4WCTw3dCMr1fs7SAYJZ2FENfSHB2sQrrB2-J9faU9hErT-6Kku7eHFzpHt8_-_7LYLneLWBydprg9T0HTzSFQyOxE9389H51cVHdrqCK3CWpuoEU3Q/s1600/Empire+0273.png" height="640" width="394" /></a></div>
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Now we can also compare the results with a period engraving which is actually around ten years later than my transitional stays - but the shape that the stays provide looks basically the same, doesn't it?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ladies' Dress Maker, from "Book of English Trades", 1811.</td></tr>
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The shape of the cups is controlled on top with drawstrings that run under the twill tape binding. </div>
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Maybe you already noticed that there are actually modern underwires under the cups to support the breasts. Since it looks like there are bones under the cups of <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/107910">the trasitional stays on the MET</a>, I thought I might get away with using them. :)<br />
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Unfortunately the photos of the back of the stays were unsuccessful so I'll have to try to get photos of it some other time and add them to the blog later. :/ </div>
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I also made a under-petticoat. At first I wanted to make a bodiced petticoat but then, I really liked <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2014/03/1809-riding-habit-in-style-of-konigin.html">the petticoat Merja made</a> for her riding habit, and eventually decided to leave the bodice out so that I wouldn't have to worry about the length of it. I actually didn't sew the shoulder straps into the waist tape of the petticoat at front either - they are only pinned so I can adjust the back depending on how high or low it should be. </div>
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The front of the petticoat is almost triangular so that the petticoat gets wider towards the hem and there's no gathering at waist, which helps to create a smooth figure without making you look like you're larger than you actually are. </div>
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The back is gathered to the waist tape only in the middle, but not on sides. </div>
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And finally, here's the side view.</div>
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The petticoat is a bit too long so I will probably have to make it shorter by making a tuck at the hem but after that I'm ready to move on! :)</div>
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7430250383947844537.post-75044707460597243932014-05-05T11:30:00.000+03:002014-05-06T11:11:06.882+03:00Fabrics (and cars)<div style="text-align: left;">
The transitional stays are finished now, along with a new regency chemise, and I'm now eagerly waiting for a chance to photograph them. In the meanwhile, I thought I'd share photos of some exciting fabric purchases.</div>
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Thanks to <a href="http://hertzwerk-freiburg.blogspot.fi/">Hertzwerk-Freiburg</a>, I was able to get enough of this pretty floral print cotton with a brown background (something I've tried to find for a while now) to make <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/SannaMaK/18th-century-dark-floral-robe-%C3%A0-langlaise/">a dark floral robe à l'Anglaise</a> out of. I'm hoping to get the dress done by August.<br />
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The next cotton fabric will turn into an early 1810s gown - very soon, I believe. This is the fabric that has been kicking me to get those regency undies done.</div>
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And the following fabric is actually polyester taffeta but at -70% discount I couldn't pass, so I bought six meters for 21 euros and have no regrets. It's a very nice quality and will eventually become a late 1780s/early 1790s robe à l'Anglaise... with a vandyke collar.. maybe... I haven't really decided yet because, in all probability, it's not happening this year.</div>
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In case you're not interested in seeing some old cars, you may stop reading this post now... ;)</div>
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As you may have noticed, I rarely write anything about my daily life here on the blog. I've always wanted to keep this quite strictly as a sewing blog only but now I'll make an exception. Last Thrusday there was an old car parade in celebration of May Day so my partner and I went out to see it. It was fun and I was actually surprised by the large number of cars there since I didn't expect to see more than just a few. We would have definitely arrived earlier if we had known there would be so much to see because now we had to rush to see most of it before the start of the parade. I was mostly interested in the eldest cars from the local car museum, although there were all sorts of vehicles dating up to late 1980s. I didn't get many good photos because it was a bit crowded there so that every time I tried to snap a photo someone would jump in the way - but here are some of my favorite shots.<br />
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The cars lined up for the parade in roughly chronological order...</div>
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The construction site and the supermarket made fine backgrounds for the photos, didn't they? ;)<span class="posthidden" id="subtopicID">
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Sanna Khttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15795829464979056917noreply@blogger.com7